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Routes in Burner Buttress

Back Burner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Burner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Death Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dread Locks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fire Starter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Goldfinch Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swing Trumpet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Les Ellison, Doug Moffat 1977
Page Views: 1,264 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 2, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A great overhanging crack system to the right of Death Flake. I think this is a great route, and would give it 3-4 stars except for a short section which required grabbing holds covered in guano. I guess I have been climbing on routes covered in Guano for over 20 years and it hasn't seemed to harm me yet... Go for it, a classic route.
Pitch one is great, for Pitch 2, climb directly up the face and exit on cracks to the left of the summit pinnacle.

Location

Dread Locks is the next major crack system left (west) of The Burner crack, and the crack system right of Death Flake.

Protection

I usually recommend the LCC rack... one set of stoppers, one set of cams from small to large.

Photos

Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
Climbed this thinking it was Burner. The graphics in the guidebook are a little vague for this section.

There's a large boulder right above the first large "flake" that's lose. I'll bet if you cranked on it hard enough, it would dislodge. Unfortunate as it has two great holds on it. Jan 14, 2012
guano=good Oct 3, 2010