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Routes in Burner Buttress

Back Burner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Burner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Death Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dread Locks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fire Starter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Goldfinch Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swing Trumpet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,721 total, 27/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The crux is the bottom 15 feet. Above this, there are enough "milker" holds to keep it mellow. If these holds weren't there, the route would be hard 5.10 The bottom looks easy, but is quite surprising. Lower off slings around a tree.

Location

This is the furthest right of the Burner offwidths.

Protection

#5-#6 BD camalots, #4.5, camalot.
Brian Johnson
Salt Lake City, Utah
Brian Johnson   Salt Lake City, Utah
There are nice new looking bolts at the top of both Burner and Firestarter. Oct 30, 2017
Mark P Thomas
Draper
 
Mark P Thomas   Draper
 
You can scramble up the gully immediately to the right to set up a TR if you aren't ready to try this on lead. A little dirty but doable cl. 4-5 solo. Or that chimney just to the right looks like a fun 5.? warmup...

Also, I agree that if you know Leavittation, Burner is WAY easier than Firestarter... that or even though I got up it last time, I'm still doing it wrong ;-p May 24, 2017
Tyson
Seattle, WA
Tyson   Seattle, WA
I had an evening session on Fire Starter last Friday and in my rush to beat the darkness I stupidly left an anchor on the starting ledge. I went back last night to pick up after myself but someone had already grabbed the gear.

I'm the idiot who left gear so it was bootied fair and square, but if you don't need that piece on your rack feel free to message me here and I'll gladly take it off your hands. Apr 14, 2015
Ben Folsom  
 
That's what I thought until figuring out the correct sequence which isn't super logical, but it works well. Feb 19, 2012
The first 5 feet of this thing felt way harder than anything on the burner to me. What am I missing? Feb 18, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
I went up to Firestarter hoping to hone, or rather establish, my offwidth technique. That move off the deck is super awful. No idea how to do it. Once you clear the first 10 feet its fun and easy the rest of the way. Placed(in order) #5 camalot, #2 camalot, #4 camalot, #3 camalot. Only 4 pieces is all as the last 15 feet is easy ground. I guess the #6 could fit somewhere but I didn't need it. Lower off fixed slings around a small tree right of the big mahogony. Oct 23, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.9
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.9
i stood on the bottom foot edge trying to figure out the opening move, and was truly stumped. It wasn't until my belayer gave me the advice to "start grunting!" that I finally figured out the beta.

Grunt and you will succeed.

1 bd #5, 1 #6, 2 #4's, 2 #3's, 1 #2, and a small cam up high. the #6 is optional. this gear beta is for sewing it up from all the decent stances with a piece every body length or so. Jan 31, 2011
Michael Buchanan  
  5.9
What a sweet route! Finally got to use that #6. Can get hexes in the crack above the tree at the top. Bottom is a thinker... I agree with Glen, the route is not 100 ft, more like 80. Not a 9+ though. Once the beta is known it is a cruiser (in off-width terms). Nov 10, 2009
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
oh yeah...

the firestarter we did was only about 70-80ft.
not 100.

plenty of rope Nov 12, 2006
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
thanks T.A. for the posted info and great picks A.C.

i've been spying those morsels for awhile...thought we could pull it off quickly tonight and got up there at about 4:15 thinking we could TR both lines...
boy, we were wrong...
we didn't epic, but Firestarter sure was a grunt, even on TR...
it just is...a grunt.
I really enjoyed it and can't wait to go back for the Burner and even the other left lines...we approached from the left (instead of from Bong Eater) so we got to check them out;
sweet sweet looking chimney...
and the other 10d looks pretty good too!

burner looks great!
firestarter was great (but one of the harder .9's,
I mean 9+'s :)
I really want to spray the beta on how we finally got the move off the deck but...that wouldn't be much fun...firestarter was pretty fun Nov 12, 2006