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Routes in Butterfly Wall

Firefly S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Great Leap T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Flash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Butterfly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Other Side of the Fence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Papillon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Phantom Fear S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rufous T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stoop S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Jim Scott, Eric Rhicard, Vince Bates
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chris Prewitt on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

An amazingly long single pitch of climbing with several technical sections on incredible rock. Scramble (5.5) to the belay ledge using three bolts for protection if desired. From the ledge take the right of two bolted lines.

When lowering it is imperative that the leader unclip many of the draws and stay clipped to the belay side of the rope. Failure to to this will result in a climber hanging in space without enough rope to go anywhere!

Location

One of the first things you'll notice when you first see the wall is a very, very tall arete. This is the right-most of three routes on this huge prow.

Protection

Many bolts + anchor, 70M rope. Climber needs to maintain contact with the belay side when lowering.

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Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Mitch - How is the trail out and back? I have heard horror stories. Jun 19, 2017
Mitch Beiser
Tucson, Arizona
  5.11
Mitch Beiser   Tucson, Arizona
  5.11
Great route... rope stretcher back to the belay station. We unclipped all the draws and had to let the full 70m rope pass through gri gri in order to untie due to rope tension. Thought it was rather moderate with plenty of rests but a short person would have a hard time using my beta which was really reachy. Jun 19, 2017