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Routes in Butterfly Wall

Firefly S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Great Leap T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Flash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Butterfly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Other Side of the Fence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Papillon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Phantom Fear S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rufous T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stoop S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Chris Prewitt, Brent Silvester
Page Views: 463 total, 5/month
Shared By: Chris Prewitt on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A long varied route in the center of a great wall. Technical face climbing on a few thin crimps leads to a good rest below the brown overhang. Climb through this to the juggy arete above which has one more cruxy bit before the last bolt.

Location

Middle of the Butterfly Wall, this is the brown overhang and green arete.

Protection

12 bolts + anchor, 70M rope

Photos

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This route probably needs another bolt on the upper arete. The climbing is relatively juggy, but the runout may be a bit excessive. I'm interested to hear thoughts from those who've been on it?

It does have a wide variety of moves on interesting holds of all sizes with a fair amount of air to boot. Apr 29, 2012
THIN face climbing. It kind of gets hard really quickly, but leads to a really fun finsih. Oct 22, 2009