Elevation: 7,200 ft
GPS: 32.423, -110.717 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,922 total · 61/month
Shared By: Chris Prewitt on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

A truly unique area for Mount Lemmon, the Butterfly Wall and the Trundle Pinnacle rank among the best crags around. The highly varied rock, in most places more similar to bullet-hard sandstone than granite, offers features found nowhere else on the mountain. Long pitches of impeccable stone, entire faces of pockets, overhangs, trad and sport climbs all await you. The environment and majestic views also make climbing here a lasting experience. Maybe it's just muscle soreness from the approach.

This wall saw its first technical climbing back in 1974 by Rich Thompson and Dave Baker. A lack of easily protectable traditional routes and a lengthy bushwack seemed to be enough to deter further development. Modern equipment and mentalities have shown this area to hold a plethora of quality climbing. NOTE: Some routes here require a 70M rope, and in some cases special tactics, to safely lower off.

Clearly visible from the Catalina Highway (Mi. 24) near the Loma Linda pullout as well as from the Butterfly Trail below, the wall still maintains a secluded atmosphere. Given the minimal human presence here the plants and animals are still in relatively pristine condition. Grass and trees at the base of the crag are a welcomed change to the dirt and erosion found at many other areas. Deer and turkey are a regular sight on the hike. In an effort to maintain this environment for future generations please take extra care to minimize your impact. Most of all enjoy your surroundings.

Approach Beta

Follow driving directions to the summit/trailhead parking on Mount Bigelow. Walk away from the radio towers (north) and down the main Butterfly trail for a few yards until a smaller trail branches off to the left. Follow this onto the ridge then down a steepening hill. You should be able to see the top of the formation slightly down-canyon. At a large, grassy saddle walk left (NW) down the slope and pick up a climbersÂ’ trail that heads across the hill (N). The trial makes a few switchbacks before making a long traverse of the hillside. Once the trail begins to near the ridge, and close to a point directly above the wall it switchbacks down to the saddle on the back of the formation. From here head left (S) around the shoulder of the formation before a final short scramble down to the base of the wall. The last few switchbacks wrap back to the wall below the wide-diagonal crack on the far right of the west face. Average time to wall: 30 minutes, to car: 45 minutes.

9 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Butterfly Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Butterfly Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Other Side of the Fence
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Iron Butterfly
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Firefly
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Other Side of the Fence
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Iron Butterfly
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Firefly
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Butterfly Wall »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos