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Routes in Butterfly Wall

Firefly S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Great Leap T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Flash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Butterfly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Other Side of the Fence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Papillon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Phantom Fear S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rufous T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stoop S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Eric Rhicard, Jim Scott, Vince Bates
Page Views: 2,612 total, 27/month
Shared By: Chris Prewitt on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Awesome moves forever. Iron Butterfly climbs up the center of the tall central prow of the Butterfly Wall.

Location

This is the left line of bolts from the small belay ledge on the right side of the huge prow.

Protection

18QD + anchors, 70M rope. When lowering, climber must unclip many upper bolts and maintain contact with the belay side of the rope to prevent being stranded in space. Knot the end on this one.

Photos

RyanJames  
 
Incredible route - airy, long, classic! Jun 16, 2010
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
70M rope stretcher is no joke! My group used two different 70M ropes and each one was a complete stretcher. While unclipping every draw on the way down, we found that the climber had to clip a long sling to the belay station as the belayer let the tail end of the rope go through the belay device. Definitely a good idea to have a knott in the end of the rope until the climber is clipped in somewhere.
The route is listed at 120ft. 70M's = 229.658 feet. So figure the rope has to stretch at least 10 feet. Quality pitch.

What an amazing line! Great job bolting this one. Jun 15, 2010
When lowering back to the ledge the climber needs to unclip a lot of the higher bolts as getting back to the ledge is a real rope stretcher. You also might find out that your 70M rope isn't 70M long as Jimbo and I did one day. We didn't tie into the belay end of the rope either. We tied a figure eight into the end and with some ropes the climber returned to the ledge as the knot wedged into the belay device. Oct 21, 2009