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Papillon

5.11, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 10 votes
FA: Jim Scott, Eric Rhicard, Vince Bates
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 7 - Upper Highway > Mt Bigelow > Butterfly Wall

Description

An amazingly long single pitch of climbing with several technical sections on incredible rock. Scramble (5.5) to the belay ledge using three bolts for protection if desired. From the ledge take the right of two bolted lines.

When lowering it is imperative that the leader unclip many of the draws and stay clipped to the belay side of the rope. Failure to to this will result in a climber hanging in space without enough rope to go anywhere!

Location

One of the first things you'll notice when you first see the wall is a very, very tall arete. This is the right-most of three routes on this huge prow.

Protection

Many bolts + anchor, 70M rope. Climber needs to maintain contact with the belay side when lowering.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mitch Beiser
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Great route... rope stretcher back to the belay station. We unclipped all the draws and had to let the full 70m rope pass through gri gri in order to untie due to rope tension. Thought it was rather moderate with plenty of rests but a short person would have a hard time using my beta which was really reachy. Jun 19, 2017
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Mitch - How is the trail out and back? I have heard horror stories. Jun 19, 2017