Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,102 total · 27/month
Shared By: Ky Harkey on Oct 18, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

This is a beautiful arching crack. Good hand jams to start. The dihedral very quickly forces you into powerful stemming. Fist jams through the middle. The crux is toward the top of the vertical crack when it widens and the dihedral constricts to force you out of it. The flake behind your head is a great spot for your otherwise useless left hand.

Location

Northwest side of Motorboat Rock. Past Can Opener and Shocker along the trail.

Protection

TR anchor from the boulder, walk off the same as other Motorboat Routes. Medium to large pieces.

Photos

boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
It's been a decade and a half but I remember this route as very strenuous for the grade. May 11, 2010
Superclimber
  5.9+
Superclimber  
  5.9+
Take all the #4s you can find (four is sufficient). Feb 6, 2014
Jake Cantu
  5.9+
Jake Cantu  
  5.9+
3s and 4s all the way to the top. A really streneous and tough climb for the grade but doable with a calm demeanor and good stemming technique. Fists and arm bars came in clutch when I climbed it. Oct 26, 2015
Mac Murchison
Waco, TX
  5.9+
Mac Murchison   Waco, TX
  5.9+
Seemed a bit tough for the grade, but it's all about keeping a cool head, especially when you don't bring enough 4s.(p.s. bring a lot of 4s) Nov 26, 2017
I TRed it last Sat and honestly found it easy for the grade, just a little harder than Dan Jam. Then again I'm a bit of a freak when it comes to wide stuff and used chimney technique almost the whole way (I did a few fist jams to assist the chimney technique). Should get a chance to redpoint it this weekend. Feb 28, 2018