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Routes in Motorboat Rock

Army Route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bastard's Moan T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beginner's Bitch T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ben's Dilemma T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Can Opener T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corkscrew T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
George of the Jungle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Motorboat T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Navy Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shocker T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,467 total, 25/month
Shared By: Ky Harkey on Oct 18, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

This is a beautiful arching crack. Good hand jams to start. The dihedral very quickly forces you into powerful stemming. Fist jams through the middle. The crux is toward the top of the vertical crack when it widens and the dihedral constricts to force you out of it. The flake behind your head is a great spot for your otherwise useless left hand.

Location

Northwest side of Motorboat Rock. Past Can Opener and Shocker along the trail.

Protection

TR anchor from the boulder, walk off the same as other Motorboat Routes. Medium to large pieces.

Photos

Mac Murchison
Waco, TX
  5.9+
Mac Murchison   Waco, TX
  5.9+
Seemed a bit tough for the grade, but it's all about keeping a cool head, especially when you don't bring enough 4s.(p.s. bring a lot of 4s) Nov 26, 2017
Jake Cantu
  5.9+
Jake Cantu  
  5.9+
3s and 4s all the way to the top. A really streneous and tough climb for the grade but doable with a calm demeanor and good stemming technique. Fists and arm bars came in clutch when I climbed it. Oct 26, 2015
Superclimber
  5.9+
Superclimber  
  5.9+
Take all the #4s you can find (four is sufficient). Feb 6, 2014
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
It's been a decade and a half but I remember this route as very strenuous for the grade. May 11, 2010