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Routes in Motorboat Rock

Army Route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bastard's Moan T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beginner's Bitch T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ben's Dilemma T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Can Opener T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corkscrew T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
George of the Jungle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Motorboat T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Navy Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shocker T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Scott Harris
Page Views: 5,229 total · 42/month
Shared By: camhead on Jun 25, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Some slabby face moves lead to a powerful undercling, then a BIG reach or deadpoint to the base of a beautiful, but short, arching fingercrack layback flake.

This route got an X in the original guidebook, although the crux is pretty protectable. The techy smears in the upper half make it a pretty heady lead, though.

Location

On the front side of Motorboat Rock, between two moderate cracks.

Protection

stoppers, tcu's, and a red camalot for the bottom. For an anchor you can use a variety of cams from .75 camalot down to fingers sizes.

Photos

Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
This route is by no means X rated

I led this in 2005 on 3 pieces of gear (hand size in the undercling, small cam and a stopper above, then whatever for anchor.) and no groundfall potential. just hard to place gear while laybacking. Jul 17, 2008
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Scott Harris did the FA, and yes, by todays standard it is not much of an X rated route. Still heady as you said and a great job by ya'll anyways. Jul 17, 2008
Nelson
FT Carson
  5.12a
Nelson   FT Carson
  5.12a
Ya I placed a Green Ballnut after the fling for the upper crack. I would love to solo it. Apr 5, 2009
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Have someone shoot video when you do Nelson. Apr 5, 2009

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