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Shocker

5.12a R, Trad, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 12 votes
FA: Scott Harris
Texas > Enchanted Rock… > Echo Canyon > Motorboat Rock
Warning Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset DetailsDrop down

Description

Some slabby face moves lead to a powerful undercling, then a BIG reach or deadpoint to the base of a beautiful, but short, arching fingercrack layback flake.

This route got an X in the original guidebook, although the crux is pretty protectable. The techy smears in the upper half make it a pretty heady lead, though.

Location

On the front side of Motorboat Rock, between two moderate cracks.

Protection

stoppers, tcu's, and a red camalot for the bottom. For an anchor you can use a variety of cams from .75 camalot down to fingers sizes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ben, setting up for the long move off the undercling
[Hide Photo] Ben, setting up for the long move off the undercling
Ben trying hard not to swing off the laybacks on Shocker
[Hide Photo] Ben trying hard not to swing off the laybacks on Shocker

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This route is by no means X rated

I led this in 2005 on 3 pieces of gear (hand size in the undercling, small cam and a stopper above, then whatever for anchor.) and no groundfall potential. just hard to place gear while laybacking. Jul 17, 2008
Hank Caylor
Livin' in the Junk!
[Hide Comment] Scott Harris did the FA, and yes, by todays standard it is not much of an X rated route. Still heady as you said and a great job by ya'll anyways. Jul 17, 2008
Nelson
FT Carson
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Ya I placed a Green Ballnut after the fling for the upper crack. I would love to solo it. Apr 5, 2009
Hank Caylor
Livin' in the Junk!
[Hide Comment] Have someone shoot video when you do Nelson. Apr 5, 2009