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Motorboat

5.9+, Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 46 votes
FA: unknown
Texas > Enchanted Rock… > Echo Canyon > Motorboat Rock
Warning Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a beautiful arching crack. Good hand jams to start. The dihedral very quickly forces you into powerful stemming. Fist jams through the middle. The crux is toward the top of the vertical crack when it widens and the dihedral constricts to force you out of it. The flake behind your head is a great spot for your otherwise useless left hand.

Location

Northwest side of Motorboat Rock. Past Can Opener and Shocker along the trail.

Protection

TR anchor from the boulder, walk off the same as other Motorboat Routes. Medium to large pieces.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Motorboat
[Hide Photo] Motorboat
Kneebars to the top
[Hide Photo] Kneebars to the top
Motorboat Crack
[Hide Photo] Motorboat Crack
Moving up the fun dihedral with precise body tension
[Hide Photo] Moving up the fun dihedral with precise body tension
Motorboat
[Hide Photo] Motorboat
Double kneebar zen rest? I say yes
[Hide Photo] Double kneebar zen rest? I say yes
Toby not so psyched on this climb
[Hide Photo] Toby not so psyched on this climb
Motorboat
[Hide Photo] Motorboat

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] It's been a decade and a half but I remember this route as very strenuous for the grade. May 11, 2010
Superclimber
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Take all the #4s you can find (four is sufficient). Feb 6, 2014
Jake Cantu
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] 3s and 4s all the way to the top. A really streneous and tough climb for the grade but doable with a calm demeanor and good stemming technique. Fists and arm bars came in clutch when I climbed it. Oct 26, 2015
Mac Murchison
Clarksville, TN
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Seemed a bit tough for the grade, but it's all about keeping a cool head, especially when you don't bring enough 4s.(p.s. bring a lot of 4s) Nov 26, 2017
[Hide Comment] I TRed it last Sat and honestly found it easy for the grade, just a little harder than Dan Jam. Then again I'm a bit of a freak when it comes to wide stuff and used chimney technique almost the whole way (I did a few fist jams to assist the chimney technique). Should get a chance to redpoint it this weekend. Feb 28, 2018