Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
Routes in Disappearing Buttress
|Haul for Nothing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Maraschino Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Missing Nothing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Ms. Management T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|No Country for Young Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Pricks and Ticks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Prime Rib T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sunday Cruise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Vanishing Act T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, Grade II|
|FA:||Maurice Horn, Joanne Urioste, Bill Hotz, Andrew Carson Jan. 17, 2009|
|Page Views:||1,299 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Carson on Sep 10, 2009|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionNear the right side of the Disappearing Buttress south face are two attractive dihedrals. The route climbs the left one.
Start from broken ledges below the two dihedrals. Climb an easy and slightly brushy pitch up to the ledge at the base of the corners. 100'.
Climb a corner just left of the main leftmost dihedral for about 40', then step right into the dihedral as it widens into a chimney. Layback/chimney up the corner to the roof blocking progress and undercling/stem left to pass the roof. Continue up easier ground, going right to a belay at a big pine with a nice ledge on the crest of the buttress. 190'. A varied, beautiful pitch.
Climb the steep white face above the ledge, then continue up the varnished face. Above this black face, follow a finger crack in the white slab to the steepening headwall. Surmount a bulge at the base of the headwall and follow cracks leading to the left edge of the buttress and the top. The route finishes at the same point as does Prime Rib. 190'. An exciting pitch.
Some fragile rock can be expected, especially on the last pitch. The second and third pitch, both long, can be broken up if parties so choose. For purposes of avoiding rope drag, this strategy might be advantageous.