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Routes in Disappearing Buttress

Haul for Nothing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Maraschino Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Missing Nothing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ms. Management T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Country for Young Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pricks and Ticks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prime Rib T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunday Cruise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Vanishing Act T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, Grade II
FA: Maurice Horn, Joanne Urioste, Bill Hotz, Andrew Carson Jan. 17, 2009
Page Views: 1,299 total, 13/month
Shared By: Andrew Carson on Sep 10, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Near the right side of the Disappearing Buttress south face are two attractive dihedrals. The route climbs the left one.
Start from broken ledges below the two dihedrals. Climb an easy and slightly brushy pitch up to the ledge at the base of the corners. 100'.
Climb a corner just left of the main leftmost dihedral for about 40', then step right into the dihedral as it widens into a chimney. Layback/chimney up the corner to the roof blocking progress and undercling/stem left to pass the roof. Continue up easier ground, going right to a belay at a big pine with a nice ledge on the crest of the buttress. 190'. A varied, beautiful pitch.
Climb the steep white face above the ledge, then continue up the varnished face. Above this black face, follow a finger crack in the white slab to the steepening headwall. Surmount a bulge at the base of the headwall and follow cracks leading to the left edge of the buttress and the top. The route finishes at the same point as does Prime Rib. 190'. An exciting pitch.
Some fragile rock can be expected, especially on the last pitch. The second and third pitch, both long, can be broken up if parties so choose. For purposes of avoiding rope drag, this strategy might be advantageous.

Location

Descent: scramble left and up to gain the ramp leading over to the canyon and descend easily to the base.

Protection

A standard rack to 4".
Ben Townsend  
 
Really nice climb; only the worrisome rock quality keeps it from being a four-star classic. On the second pitch, it seemed logical to follow the arete and hand crack on the left, instead of going into the chimney -- done this way, it didn't seem any harder than 5.8. Two #3 Camalots were nice for the hand crack. In retrospect, we should have broken the second pitch into two, belaying at the good ledge at about 100'. The third pitch is spectacular and airy. Apr 17, 2015
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
We had a couple big holds snap off on us. I wouldn't pass up protection opportunities until it gets climbed more. Also, the crack on the face looked like a better option than going into the chimney. Dec 5, 2010