All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Southern Outcrops > Disappearing Buttress

Vanishing Act

Name: Vanishing Act
Rating: 2.8

5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Disappearing Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adam's Rib T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Escape Plan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Haul for Nothing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Maraschino Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Missing Nothing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Mr. Garvey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Ms. Management T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	No Country for Young Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pricks and Ticks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Prime Rib T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Substitute Teacher T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Sunday Cruise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Vanishing Act T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type:	Trad, 500 ft (152 m), Grade II
GPS:	36.00623, -115.46607
FA:	Maurice Horn, Joanne Urioste, Bill Hotz, Andrew Carson Jan. 17, 2009
Page Views:	2,987 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Andrew Carson on Sep 10, 2009
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Near the right side of the Disappearing Buttress south face are two attractive dihedrals. The route climbs the left one.
Start from broken ledges below the two dihedrals. Climb an easy and slightly brushy pitch up to the ledge at the base of the corners. 100'.
Climb a corner just left of the main leftmost dihedral for about 40', then step right into the dihedral as it widens into a chimney. Layback/chimney up the corner to the roof blocking progress and undercling/stem left to pass the roof. Continue up easier ground, going right to a belay at a big pine with a nice ledge on the crest of the buttress. 190'. A varied, beautiful pitch.
Climb the steep white face above the ledge, then continue up the varnished face. Above this black face, follow a finger crack in the white slab to the steepening headwall. Surmount a bulge at the base of the headwall and follow cracks leading to the left edge of the buttress and the top. The route finishes at the same point as does Prime Rib. 190'. An exciting pitch.
Some fragile rock can be expected, especially on the last pitch. The second and third pitch, both long, can be broken up if parties so choose. For purposes of avoiding rope drag, this strategy might be advantageous.