Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Maurice Horn, Andrew Carson, Bill Hotz, Jorge Urioste 1/10/09 |
Page Views: | 7,943 total · 45/month |
Shared By: | Andrew Carson on Sep 7, 2009 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Disappearing Buttress sits across the small drainage just north of the Illusion Crags. It's approximately 500' high and offers quality rock and much climbing potential on generally south facing rock.
Prime Rib climbs the most prominent line up the south face, giving four pitches of excellent climbing of about 5.7 difficulty.
From the lowest point of the south face, scramble 4th/easy 5th class up to a large ledge, below and left of a pine tree. From here, the first pitch climbs cracks just right of the crest, then up the crest, passing to the left of a square-cut roof. Belay on a good stance a short distance above.
Continue slightly right of the ridge crest, following a curving crack, then trend left and back to the crest. Follow the crest more or less directly upwards, with belays possible at several small stances.
Climb on the crest or slightly right of it to a final steep headwall. Climb this from the right to a big, comfortable ledge.
A short pitch going right leads to the top.
The route can be broken into a variety of pitch lengths, depending upon what belays are chosen. The first ascent did the climb in four pitches.
The second ascent, done in Feb., '09, climbed left of the crest in several places, and used a couple of pitons, still in place.
Prime Rib climbs the most prominent line up the south face, giving four pitches of excellent climbing of about 5.7 difficulty.
From the lowest point of the south face, scramble 4th/easy 5th class up to a large ledge, below and left of a pine tree. From here, the first pitch climbs cracks just right of the crest, then up the crest, passing to the left of a square-cut roof. Belay on a good stance a short distance above.
Continue slightly right of the ridge crest, following a curving crack, then trend left and back to the crest. Follow the crest more or less directly upwards, with belays possible at several small stances.
Climb on the crest or slightly right of it to a final steep headwall. Climb this from the right to a big, comfortable ledge.
A short pitch going right leads to the top.
The route can be broken into a variety of pitch lengths, depending upon what belays are chosen. The first ascent did the climb in four pitches.
The second ascent, done in Feb., '09, climbed left of the crest in several places, and used a couple of pitons, still in place.
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