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Routes in Disappearing Buttress

Haul for Nothing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Maraschino Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Missing Nothing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ms. Management T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Country for Young Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pricks and Ticks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prime Rib T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunday Cruise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Vanishing Act T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Maurice Horn, Andrew Carson, Bill Hotz, Jorge Urioste 1/10/09
Page Views: 4,612 total · 43/month
Shared By: Andrew Carson on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Disappearing Buttress sits across the small drainage just north of the Illusion Crags. It's approximately 500' high and offers quality rock and much climbing potential on generally south facing rock.
Prime Rib climbs the most prominent line up the south face, giving four pitches of excellent climbing of about 5.7 difficulty.
From the lowest point of the south face, scramble 4th/easy 5th class up to a large ledge, below and left of a pine tree. From here, the first pitch climbs cracks just right of the crest, then up the crest, passing to the left of a square-cut roof. Belay on a good stance a short distance above.
Continue slightly right of the ridge crest, following a curving crack, then trend left and back to the crest. Follow the crest more or less directly upwards, with belays possible at several small stances.
Climb on the crest or slightly right of it to a final steep headwall. Climb this from the right to a big, comfortable ledge.
A short pitch going right leads to the top.
The route can be broken into a variety of pitch lengths, depending upon what belays are chosen. The first ascent did the climb in four pitches.
The second ascent, done in Feb., '09, climbed left of the crest in several places, and used a couple of pitons, still in place.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route climbs the central prominent rib on the south face of the buttress. Descend west along slabs and ledges, and then back to the base. A quick, easy descent.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack to 3".
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
Climbed this fine route today after bailing on an FA of the left facing flakes to this routes immediate right. Turned out to be a good decision because Prime Rib is outstanding and the climb we planned on doing kept looking worse as we continued up. The pitons on the third pitch looked OLD (ring pins, slight rust), looks like someone was here long ago. Jan 10, 2010
sqwirll
Las Vegas
  5.7
sqwirll   Las Vegas
  5.7
Those are actually just old pins that were recently placed on a new route. Being a new route, there is still some loose rock. We tried to remove as much as possible, but be wary if there is a party above you. Mar 2, 2010
Definitely 5.7, but not the best choice for a new leader due to less than obvious route-finding and loose rock. It should be better after it cleans up a bit. With the loop just crawling with spring break vacationers and people who showed up early for the Rendezvous, Disappearing Buttress was a great place to avoid the crowds. The only other people we saw out there were those whose headlamps we spied from afar as they made their way back from
the south face of Windy Peak. Mar 15, 2010
Jay Holland
Marietta, GA
 
Jay Holland   Marietta, GA
 
Interesting day. The road is a bit rough, use the exit just west of black velvet parking and follow it west along the highway, turn hard right and go to the second parking lot(small) You should be able to see the area easily from here. Head straight towards the area. Go up to the base of the rock and drop left around to the route. You will see cairns on the way as you get closer. About 1 hour approach through rough bushwacking. Very little trail. The start and end is not great climbing. The middle is great. Hard to define best belay stops, pro is not easy to find. Holds are all there. Great Top out! Walk off 25 minutes back to base. We did it in 4 pitches. 1st short scramble , then three long pitches with 70m rope. Feb 25, 2013
Well done Maurice and company, what an awesome first ascent team. I climbed this rt. awhile ago after Maurice recomended it and loved it, good climbing, exposure and cool summit and walk off; really great. Thanks for posting Andrew and hope to see you guys again soon. May 29, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 PG13
Good, not great climbing. Fairly run out- although if you had a double set of small cams it would feel better- we didnt have anything smaller than fingers and I wished I did for most of the day. A set of rp's or other micronuts would also be nice in a few spots.

Rock was pretty good for the most part- nothing broke on us, although some spots on the route had that...'please don't break' feeling...

All in all, a nice day out. Definitely 5.7 for the 5.9 and up leader, though. Not a beginner route. Nov 30, 2013
The remote location and long strenuous approach will keep the crowds away from this climb.
We had some difficulty identifying the start of the climb from the description, but were eventually able to find the spot that matched one of the pictures.
We roped up for the "scramble 4th/easy 5th class up to a large ledge" so that my second would be protected.
First: Climbed most of a 70 meter rope length to a small stance. I might have been able to reach this point if I had started from the ground instead of the ledge.
Second: Climbed half a rope length to a small ledge.
Third: Climbed half a rope length to a ledge at the base of the headwall. Had a challenge finding good pro for anchor. Used the rusty fixed pin.
Fourth: Climbed the headwall to big ledge on top.
Fifth: Short pitch to the right. Stopped when it became a ledge, but could have climbed up one more short pitch to top.
Followed cairns around left and up to the descent.
The descent gully was marked with cairns, but the descent was not trivial. It took us a lot longer than the reported 25 minutes to get back to the base of the route.

Rock quality was not great. We had holds break off on every pitch, including the scramble to the starting ledge.
Two of the broken-off holds, one toaster-oven sized block and one that was a little smaller, could have been fatal to someone below, so it was a good thing they broke when the follower used them, not the leader. Mar 13, 2016
The beta photo showing an overview of the route should get you started in the right place. You'll be below a less than attractive white corner, wondering if this can really be it. The climbing on this first pitch is not great, and helmets are highly recommended on a route like this, particularly for the follower.

The climbing does get better, with some sections of really fun climbing on stellar rock (generally on the right side of the rib). However you must show some creativity on the belay stances and, as others mentioned, the rock can be quite suspect on various sections of this route. Tread lightly, be ready for a serious route for the grade, and enjoy this climb for what it is, a decent climb with an adventurous feel up a very cool feature. Good, but not great. Nov 26, 2017

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