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Routes in Disappearing Buttress

Escape Plan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Haul for Nothing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Maraschino Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Missing Nothing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ms. Management T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Country for Young Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pricks and Ticks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prime Rib T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunday Cruise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Vanishing Act T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dyan Padagas, Kevin Hogan and Jason Martin - March 2010
Page Views: 832 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jason D. Martin on Mar 30, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route can be found just right of Prime Rib. It climbs the obvious curving crack and then continues to the summit of the feature. We know that the first pitch was previously climbed. We discovered bolts at the top of the pitch and an old sling around a block. We believe that we were the first to do the upper three pitches of the route. However, anyone is welcome to dispute that fact.

The route was named "Pricks and Ticks" because I had the unfortunate opportunity to fall into a cactus on the descent. In addition to that, it seemed like we were battling an unusually large number of ticks throughout the day.

Pitch 1 - Climb the beautiful arching crack up to a ledge. Most of the crack is 5.7, but as it squeezes down and traverses, it becomes 5.9. Belay at the double-bolt anchor. (160', 5.9)

Pitch 2 - Climb up past a brushy ledge and onto the arete. The black patina on the arete is similar to that found on Armatron or Going Nuts, but much less sustained. As the rock quality deteriorates, step left onto a ledge and build a belay. (100', 5.7)

Pitch 3 - Climb up a chimney up and right. Continue to traverse right to a belay ledge at the base of a large corner. (75', 5.5)

Pitch 4 - Climb up the corner to the summit. More good black rock can be found on this spectacular pitch. At the top, be sure to put in directionals so that the rope doesn't knock loose rock onto your partners. (160', 5.7)

Location

This route can be found just right of Prime Rib. It climbs the obvious and classic arching crack.

Protection

Standard Red Rock rack. Doubles from .5-3.

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