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Routes in Disappearing Buttress
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Haul for Nothing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Maraschino Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Missing Nothing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Ms. Management T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Country for Young Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pricks and Ticks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prime Rib T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunday Cruise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Vanishing Act T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Dyan Padagas, Kevin Hogan and Jason Martin - March 2010 |
| Page Views: | 811 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jason D. Martin on Mar 30, 2010 |
| Admins: | Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route can be found just right of Prime Rib. It climbs the obvious curving crack and then continues to the summit of the feature. We know that the first pitch was previously climbed. We discovered bolts at the top of the pitch and an old sling around a block. We believe that we were the first to do the upper three pitches of the route. However, anyone is welcome to dispute that fact.
The route was named "Pricks and Ticks" because I had the unfortunate opportunity to fall into a cactus on the descent. In addition to that, it seemed like we were battling an unusually large number of ticks throughout the day.
Pitch 1 - Climb the beautiful arching crack up to a ledge. Most of the crack is 5.7, but as it squeezes down and traverses, it becomes 5.9. Belay at the double-bolt anchor. (160', 5.9)
Pitch 2 - Climb up past a brushy ledge and onto the arete. The black patina on the arete is similar to that found on Armatron or Going Nuts, but much less sustained. As the rock quality deteriorates, step left onto a ledge and build a belay. (100', 5.7)
Pitch 3 - Climb up a chimney up and right. Continue to traverse right to a belay ledge at the base of a large corner. (75', 5.5)
Pitch 4 - Climb up the corner to the summit. More good black rock can be found on this spectacular pitch. At the top, be sure to put in directionals so that the rope doesn't knock loose rock onto your partners. (160', 5.7)
The route was named "Pricks and Ticks" because I had the unfortunate opportunity to fall into a cactus on the descent. In addition to that, it seemed like we were battling an unusually large number of ticks throughout the day.
Pitch 1 - Climb the beautiful arching crack up to a ledge. Most of the crack is 5.7, but as it squeezes down and traverses, it becomes 5.9. Belay at the double-bolt anchor. (160', 5.9)
Pitch 2 - Climb up past a brushy ledge and onto the arete. The black patina on the arete is similar to that found on Armatron or Going Nuts, but much less sustained. As the rock quality deteriorates, step left onto a ledge and build a belay. (100', 5.7)
Pitch 3 - Climb up a chimney up and right. Continue to traverse right to a belay ledge at the base of a large corner. (75', 5.5)
Pitch 4 - Climb up the corner to the summit. More good black rock can be found on this spectacular pitch. At the top, be sure to put in directionals so that the rope doesn't knock loose rock onto your partners. (160', 5.7)
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