No Country for Young Men
Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
Routes in Disappearing Buttress
|Haul for Nothing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Maraschino Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Missing Nothing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Ms. Management T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|No Country for Young Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Pricks and Ticks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Prime Rib T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sunday Cruise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Vanishing Act T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Maurice Horn, Andrew Carson Feb. 11, 2009|
|Page Views:||911 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Carson on Sep 10, 2009|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThe west end of the main south face is a steep varnished wall split by several cracks and fins. There is a small buttress separated from the face, forming a steep short gully between it and the wall.
On the main wall above this detached buttress one can see a crack with mottled white patches on its left side. The upper, steepest portion of the crack has a small aromatic bush at its base. The route climbs this crack and follows another crack up more laid back terrain to the unroping spot, in three pitches.
Start directly below the crack and climb a steep face to a broken area, passing the shrub and continuing to the abovementioned crack. Follow this feature to a comfortable belay ledge, being careful with a precarious-looking block as one pulls onto the belay. (The first ascent party kicked and prodded this block to check its relative security. While it didn't move, it has a delicate look to it.) 180'
Move to the left end of the ledge and climb a crack, clipping a ring wafer piton. Then, continue up enjoyable rock with several short headwalls to a belay shy of the top. 190'
Climb a short pitch, depending upon where the second belay was set up, to easy ground and the end of the route.
Scramble up and west to broad ledges which lead over to the drainage, and descend to the base of the route.