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Routes in Disappearing Buttress

Haul for Nothing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Maraschino Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Missing Nothing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ms. Management T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Country for Young Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pricks and Ticks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prime Rib T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunday Cruise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Vanishing Act T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matt Clarke, Alex Henson
Page Views: 1,016 total · 10/month
Shared By: sqwirll on Mar 14, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a decent route up the far right side of the buttress.

P1- Start up a featured finger crack on the right side of the buttress. Continue up and left to a belay at a large tree. 180'

P2- Traverse out right from the anchor and up on good holds to the base of an open book. Climb up the open book to the base of an obvious corner. Start up the corner, then swing out left on good holds and up to an another tree anchor. Watch for rope drag on this pitch. 200'

P3- Easy 4th/5th class leads to the top of the buttress. 120'

Location

Begin on the right side of the buttress in finger crack, just to the right of a shallow left facing corner.

Follow the standard walkoff descent.

Protection

Single rack to 3". No fixed anchors.

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
A great moderate on mostly very good rock. The protection isn’t bad but requires creativity.

Someone has taken it on themselves to add a couple of strangely-located bolted rappel anchors (plus, for unknown reasons, a single bolt, quicklink, and ring at the base of the route). If you are considering this option, which I wouldn’t given the quick and easy walk-off, take two ropes. Apr 16, 2018

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