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Routes in Goldenfingers Wall

Arete Bernadette T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arete Juliete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Garden of Gordon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goldbagger T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Oldie S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Goldenfingers T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grillin' Swillin' & Chillin' TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
OtherWorld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stone They Rejected S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Sport, 25 ft
FA: Gary Olsen, onsight solo, 1983
Page Views: 862 total · 8/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Climb the arete using knobs and small crystals. Gain a slab stance about half way up and clip the only bolt. Friction your way up the remaining face aiming for a thin crack. Top it out and give yourself a high five.

Back-wall dabbing the start is highly discouraged.


On the far left side of the main Goldenfingers Wall just left of Golden Oldie


One bolt and micro nuts.


I broke a huge crystal off this a few years back, and took a nice whip. Seemed harder than 10a after that...but I'm a cupcake. Oct 13, 2009
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
You can get a couple of shaky micro cams in the cracks above the lone bolt, I think red and green C3s worked. Micronuts placements aren't obvious but with some tinkering you will get by.
Sticking inside the chimney for the first couple moves would save you from a nasty fall. There is still one move to clip the bolt that I would suggest not blowing... May 13, 2013

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