Type: Trad, Sport, 25 ft
FA: Gary Olsen, onsight solo, 1983
Page Views: 877 total · 8/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Climb the arete using knobs and small crystals. Gain a slab stance about half way up and clip the only bolt. Friction your way up the remaining face aiming for a thin crack. Top it out and give yourself a high five.

Back-wall dabbing the start is highly discouraged.

Location

On the far left side of the main Goldenfingers Wall just left of Golden Oldie

Protection

One bolt and micro nuts.

Photos

Tea
Tea  
I broke a huge crystal off this a few years back, and took a nice whip. Seemed harder than 10a after that...but I'm a cupcake. Oct 13, 2009
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
You can get a couple of shaky micro cams in the cracks above the lone bolt, I think red and green C3s worked. Micronuts placements aren't obvious but with some tinkering you will get by.
Sticking inside the chimney for the first couple moves would save you from a nasty fall. There is still one move to clip the bolt that I would suggest not blowing... May 13, 2013