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Routes in Goldenfingers Wall

Arete Bernadette T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arete Juliete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Garden of Gordon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goldbagger T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Oldie S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Worm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Goldenfingers T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grillin' Swillin' & Chillin' TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
OtherWorld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stone They Rejected S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: Scott Unice, Julie Gustin, Gordon Oakeson, 1988
Page Views: 687 total, 7/month
Shared By: grk10vq on May 10, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Above and around the corner from Goldfinger is a rounded and striking arete. This blank and lightly featured face is Arete Juliete. Particular protection and intimidating moves make this line a bold undertaking. This climb sees low amounts of traffic yielding flaky and brittle terrain.

Start off-balance with blank feet and blunt hands. A dynamic move gains a long shallow edge. Rock onto this small ledge, place a piece then ride the arete up and left past a bolt. Stay low and on the face avoiding the temptation to rock over too soon. Squeeze the blunt arete and slab up and left across the face. Clip another bolt and keep trust in what follows! A few sketchy moves unveil a good surprise, mantle up and over at the lines apex.

Location

Above and Around from Goldfinger is a large and rounding arete. Start on it's left side in front of a few broken boulders.

Protection

Two draws, small/med. stoppers, and gear from .5-#2 Black Diamond. Build an anchor on top using the hand sized pieces. Walk-off or scramble down to Goldfinger's anchors.

Photos

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