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Routes in Goldenfingers Wall

Arete Bernadette T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arete Juliete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Garden of Gordon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goldbagger T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Oldie S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Worm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Goldenfingers T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grillin' Swillin' & Chillin' TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
OtherWorld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stone They Rejected S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Gary Olsen, 1980's
Page Views: 2,349 total, 17/month
Shared By: triznuty on May 18, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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28 Opinions

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Description

This is a must do in the canyon! Put your crimp skills to the test. The crux is after the 2nd bolt. Little run between 3rd and 4th bolt but mellow for sure. Good mantle at the top.

Location

Located at Goldfinger Wall. It's the bolted line to the right of Goldfingers. Same start as Goldfingers but head right...

Protection

Bring webbing for the anchor(Tree) and there are 4 bolts to clip.

Photos

grk10vq    
it is easier than the dirge, painted bird, the oracle, golden oldie, reach the beach, delirium tremens, guano roof, and skinny len crimps? i have consistently found it harder than oxymoron, dehumanized, donomight and drunk punk oi. fight the creep. Oct 6, 2017
KG
SLC, UT
  5.11-
KG   SLC, UT
  5.11-
Climbed this twice now and would definitely put this at 11-.
I'd say 10+ is a little bit of a sandbag.
Regardless, this is a great route and should be done if in the area. Oct 6, 2017
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.10+
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.10+
I think the route looks a bit easier then it ends up being. Took a few falls trying to get to the third bolt, but the falls are decently clean. Crux is thin and technical, more mental than it is physical. No moves that are more difficult than the grade, but it can feel harder than some 11's in the canyon if you struggle to find the small pebbles, crystals, and crimps. Cool history behind the route, I wonder how much greasier the route has gotten since the FA. I would say no to a bolted Anchor, as there is a tree, and chains to the left of the route. Apr 30, 2015
wasatch boy
Salt Lake City, UT
wasatch boy   Salt Lake City, UT
Stout. Warm up on some of the nearby 5.12s, then come try this one. Oct 17, 2014
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.10+
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.10+
Very technical route but the holds are there and it's very sendable once you dial the sequence. There definitely are a variety of sequences for this climb which makes it fun to do laps on. Some of the key holds, at least for me, are like holding onto Skittles!! I plan on building some better anchors around the tree very soon (there were no anchors when I did this route). A must do route in Ferguson!! Sep 8, 2013
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10d
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10d
Onsight solo FA!? Madness. Nice work. Sep 17, 2012
Shaft
Salt Lake City
Shaft   Salt Lake City
Read about Gary's solo of this route here:

utahclimbers.com/phpBB2/vie…

First post in the thread. If you have time continue reading, great stuff. Sep 8, 2008
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.10+
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.10+
Whoa, I'm glad someone else thought this was 5.10+. Slabby crimp skittles save the day. I've always thought goldfinger's crux was getting to the crack; that only gets the ball rolling here. Bolt number three is a manky ferguson buttonhead that inspired me to climb like a Gabe in some movie. A tricky lead let-alone solo. Jul 18, 2007