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Routes in Goldenfingers Wall

Arete Bernadette T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arete Juliete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Garden of Gordon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goldbagger T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Oldie S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Worm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Goldenfingers T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grillin' Swillin' & Chillin' TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
OtherWorld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stone They Rejected S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 30 ft
FA: G. Kirchhoff, G. Sun, 2009
Page Views: 607 total, 9/month
Shared By: grk10vq on May 19, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Wild Ferguson funk up an arete. As interesting as it's neighbor, albeit more direct, this mixed line offers a touch of everything.

Start on a belay platform and scurry up to a thin crack on the left-side of the face. Follow cracks up 5 feet to a large, scooping horn. Pull into an obvious crack and follow it through the face to the top of the buttress. You'll come across some thoughtful gear with good stances and a single bolt that protects the crux. Originally done going straight up the thin crack, using the only the arete and avoiding completely avoiding anything to the right or the corner.

Descend via a quick and easy walk-off back and to the left.

  • This route has an anchor that comes and goes? People like to steal shiny things? Be prepared to build your own anchor, clip the pre-slung block, or do both. Easy to top-rope.

Location

Located at the Goldfingers Wall. Arete Bernadette sits up, left, and around the corner (south east) from Arete Juliete. Look for a clean, obvious face with a wavy crack and single bolt.

Protection

A light rack with stress on micro nuts and cams. . You won't need more than two or three pieces, all small, but you may have to build or back up the slung block at the top with anypiece from a 1/2 to 2 inches.

Photos

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