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Routes in Goldenfingers Wall

Arete Bernadette T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arete Juliete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Garden of Gordon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goldbagger T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Oldie S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Worm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Goldenfingers T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Grillin' Swillin' & Chillin' TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
OtherWorld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stone They Rejected S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: L. Ellison, B. Smoot 1982
Page Views: 2,141 total, 11/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

On the right face of the wall you will see a finger crack that starts about 10-15 feet above the ground. This is your goal. Startalmost below the bolted line to the right, attain the leftward diagonalling cracks and move left until you can make the finger crack. The bolt protects the crux. However, the funnest part is the lunge for the flake near the top. I later tried to climb the direct line and realized why you start right.

Protection

Large slings for trees at the top. 1 draw for the climb, and TCU's for the crack.

Photos

KG
SLC, UT
  5.10 R
KG   SLC, UT
  5.10 R
It is possible to protect the crack every 3-4 feet or so but to do it onsight would be quite a feat. The first piece of pro isn't until the crack starts too, which is about 10-15 feet off the ground. Heady! Setting up a TR on this one is easy to do by scrambling around the left side. Pretty fun route worth doing if in the area. Oct 9, 2017
Donovan Allen
Subaru
  5.10b R
Donovan Allen   Subaru
  5.10b R
Such an overlooked climb in the canyon. I always thought the "R" rating came from the flared crack, gear is actually pretty good. Blowing the moves to the chains is probably the "R" part. Oct 17, 2016
Actually, Goldenfingers was first climbed by Smoot and Ellison. Stone they Rejected and the route left of Goldenfingers were soloed on the FA by some young punk out seeking the meaning of life. Those ascents were not widely reported and some climbers with more sense bolted them not knowing that they had been previously ascended. Aug 3, 2006
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
 
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Solo FA's--Man that's Sick!!

I love the routes on this wall. I come back to them every year. Goldfingers is a classic! May 18, 2006
Both soloed for the FA, then later drilled by unknowing parties. How 'bout them apples?! Go climb Stone they rejected and ponder 4 classing that crux. proud. And an all together different era. A set that goes clank, for sure. Sep 15, 2005