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Routes in Petrifying Wall

A Cougar One Bite Brownie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beers Are Not Enough T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Water S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the Couch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
D.O.A. T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Elastic Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Even Steven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flight of the Challenger T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flingus Cling, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Food Frenzy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ghost, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heavy Petting Action S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Name Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pleasant Pheasant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plumbline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Underwire S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Youth Gone Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Perry Beckham, Tim Holwill March 1986
Page Views: 1,435 total, 14/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Aug 26, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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24 Opinions

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Description

No Name Road is an outstanding route with a bold feel to it due to some slightly runout sections and a high start with no pro. Start up the route where Even Steven and several other routes begin and traverse an easy ramp (5.7 or 5.8) right till the ramp ends and a bolt can be clipped on the right face. Continue straight up the face past a few more bolts and the crux to an intermediate rap anchor. Climb past this anchor to a big roof and make some gymnastic moves to the top. Clean the route down to the first anchor and then re-thread the rope to get down with one 60m.

Location

This route has the same start as Even Steven up an easy corner to a right angling ramp.

Protection

There are 9 or 10 bolts on this route and two anchors, one at the top and one for rapping back down with a 60m rope.

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Seanald
  5.11b/c PG13
Seanald  
  5.11b/c PG13
This climb felt like an incredible adventure... really, really exciting for a sport route. The bolting makes Smith Rock seem soft. We did the '12d' direct start (~V5 boulder problem) rather than risking a leg breaking fall on the original traverse to get up to the first bolt. There are still some pretty significant runouts to keep you on your toes higher up (think ~30+ foot winger potential if you blew it on the easier stuff). Tie knots in your rope for the 35 meter rap and angle climbers right to get down. Jun 26, 2017
Chai
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11b/c R
Chai   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11b/c R
Bringing small-med nuts and/or cams lowers the sketch-factor. There's still a bit of a no-fall zone at the start, but smaller. Above, there's a small run-out by the large angled R-facing flake behind which it's possible to place a piece (though I don't know if it'd hold much).

A 70m rope will get you from the top to the ground on rope stretch, and though there's a fair bit of friction at the top, it's then possible to TR it.

Anyway, pretty cool line! Jul 19, 2015