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Routes in Petrifying Wall

A Cougar One Bite Brownie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beers Are Not Enough T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Water S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the Couch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
D.O.A. T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Elastic Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Even Steven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flight of the Challenger T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flingus Cling, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Food Frenzy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ghost, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heavy Petting Action S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Name Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pleasant Pheasant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plumbline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Underwire S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Youth Gone Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Dave Lane, 1986
Page Views: 2,990 total, 26/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 27, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Of the many classics at the Pet, this one is among the most classic. A long, dead-vertical line with cool moves, tricky sequences, and some good fall potential as the bolts get more and more spaced near the top.

A bolt station for the route to the left can be used to shorten the route, you'll still have to climb 11c, but you won't get the full experience.

Location

This is the second bolt line left of the break where the cliff base drops twenty feet. Descend the stairs and take an immediate right and the little trail will put you almost in front of it. Also the second bolt line left of The Flingus Cling.

Protection

At least ten bolts to a two bolt anchor. A stick clip for the first bolt is recommended and a 60m rope is necessary.

Photos

Adam Compton  
 
This route is amazing! Thrilling, with big fall potential (safe though) after a few bolts and slightly spicy at the second bolt (maybe I had the wrong hold?). Don't hit the first anchors on the left, the top is well worth doing, you just need to find the right holds. One of my favorite endings to a route ever. 70m rope is ideal for this one. Sep 25, 2017
Eric Hirst  
 
A single 60m rope is fine for the full route. I finally got on the full version this weekend after various trips up the love-seat variation, and Oh My the top part is worth doing. Aug 31, 2011
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
This route has the honor of handing me the biggest whipper I've ever taken, probably about 30 feet. I fell while in the act of clipping just near the rest ledge (probably shouldn have hung on the bolt below it, was "burning" for sure)... Sep 20, 2010
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
 
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
 
Mark, I'm not certain about that. I think the 85 feet would be to the point where you can escape off to an anchor to the left. I'm pretty sure that you need at least a 60m to get down in one rap, but if it doesn't reach, you can try swinging over to the base of Flingus Cling, which is higher up the hill, or you can use the anchor for the climb left of The Couch as an intermediate rap, so you'll be able to get down one way or another. Mar 15, 2010
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
The guidebook says it's only 27.5 meters, which would be closer to 85 feet. I've never done the route but I'd like to get on it this year, is a 60m rope enough to rappel from the anchors? Mar 15, 2010