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Routes in Petrifying Wall

A Cougar One Bite Brownie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beers Are Not Enough T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Water S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the Couch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
D.O.A. T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Elastic Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Even Steven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flight of the Challenger T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flingus Cling, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Food Frenzy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ghost, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heavy Petting Action S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Name Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pleasant Pheasant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plumbline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Underwire S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Youth Gone Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Greg Foweraker, Jim Sandford, 1986
Page Views: 529 total · 5/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 27, 2008
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

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Description

At 11b, this is one of the easier climbs at the Pet, but it's solid and the first bolt is too high for most stick clips. The crux comes between the first and second bolt, but the route stays sustained the whole way. There's one spot where you could probably "cheat" by going a bit right, but staying on the line is rewarded by good climbing, and it doesn't change the overall grade.

This area of the Pet wall can get some welcome shade from trees while the rest of the wall roasts.

Location

This route is roughly in the middle of the upper tier of the Pet wall. Its distinguishing feature is that it's the only climb in the vicinity that doesn't look like a 12.

Protection

Five bolts and a two bolt anchor. A .75 camalot sized piece before the last bolt is nice but not absolutely necessary (definitely recommended if this grade is close to your limit). As mentioned above, the first bolt is too high for most stick clip. The climbing is probably 5.8 to the bolt, but you would be looking at an ankle breaking fall or worse if you blew it.

Photos

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Chai
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11b
Chai   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11b
A small cam (#1 blue Metolius Master Cam if memory serves) helps mitigate the ankle-breaking potential at the start. Jul 19, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Stay as direct on the route as possible and the line is a little more challenging at the easier sections and flows a little more nicely overall. Jul 3, 2009

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