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Routes in Petrifying Wall

A Cougar One Bite Brownie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beers Are Not Enough T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Water S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burning Down the Couch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
D.O.A. T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Elastic Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Even Steven T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flight of the Challenger T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flingus Cling, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Food Frenzy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ghost, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heavy Petting Action S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Name Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pleasant Pheasant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Plumbline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Underwire S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Youth Gone Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,716 total, 15/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Jul 22, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Steep climbing off the ground quickly leads to a blocky horn and small slab (bolted anchor). From the left-facing-corner above the slab, follow cracks and a surprising number of face holds, passing one or two small overhangs. Step leftward ~25 feet before the top of the wall into a new crack which leads to the chains. This route requires a bit of every type of technique. The beautiful ocean view from the top is well-deserved. Although given only 2/5 stars in the Select Guide, this route is a classic. McClane gets it right in his book... "a tour-de-force of 5.10 climbing".

Location

At the far left end of the Pet Wall, a few small roofs and obvious clean cracks mark this route. It is also immediately left of the bolted "No Name Road".

Protection

Double set of cams, and a set of nuts. RPs or offset cams can be used.

With a 60m rope, you may need to use the slab anchor ~10m off the ground, in order to get back down. Definitely have your belayer tie into the rope if you're on a 60m.

Photos

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David Bruneau
St. John
  5.10+
David Bruneau   St. John
  5.10+
There's a jug on this after the crux that moves if you pull out on it. Scared me quite a bit. Not quite PG13 but the pro on this is sometimes a bit strange or thin, some of the rock is hollow and you can't place gear everywhere. Bring lots of long slings. Aug 22, 2016