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Routes in Left Hand Rock

Byron's Ladder S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Dark Days T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gilded Lily S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guilted Willy TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lilies of the Valley T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T-Rect T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triceratops T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Byron Prinzmetal
Page Views: 2,629 total, 26/month
Shared By: Croy T on Aug 25, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

August 24, 2009 – Left Hand Rock - I rope soloed a new, unknown 5.2 sport route right of Dark Days (the deep chimney just right of Lilies of the Valley and ?Gilded Lily?). This is an all sport route with 9 bolts. It starts right and below a stack of flakes, straight up and gains a rib. It follows the right side of edge of water streak. It goes to brown painted hangers and rap rings. It is a good option for starting newbies and training lead climbers. The bolt placements will require lead climbers to think about the use of different lengths of draws and slings to reduce rope drag. Using several of the upper bolts as directionals provides new top rope climbing below and left of the anchor. A 60 meter rope works fine. This climb and anchor, coupled with T-Rect and Triceratops, both 5.7+, now opens up the entire right shoulder of Left Hand Rock to a wide range of top roping with 3 easily accessed anchors. This development could potentially reduce the waiting for more experienced climbers to get on the more moderate popular climbs like Index Toe and Middle Toe. This will also reduce any perceived pressure on the new climbers to get out of the way of those waiting.

Location

This is to the right of Dark Days (the deep chimney just right of Lilies of the Valley and ?Gilded Lily?).

Protection

9 bolts - see description. Some long slings (24") to reduce rope drag.

Per waldo: this may be missing anchor bolts.
waldo
Knoxville, TN
waldo   Knoxville, TN
I climbed this in the summer in 2015, and it was missing the anchors. Oct 21, 2015
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
Pretty boring, you spend most of your time clipping. I didn't clip the first two bolts. Wish I had known that it was for accessing other routes! Jun 11, 2015
Walt Barker
Reno NV
 
Walt Barker   Reno NV
 
Enjoyable climb for new leader, etc. First two bolts could keep someone from careening down the gully if they cart-wheeled, no? Apr 23, 2012
I put this in to easily get to the top for the two sport routes to the left. I call this Byron's Ladder. The point that the first two bolts are worthless is true and that there is a lot of rope drag is also true. May 11, 2011
Charlie Stump
Fort Collins, CO
 
Charlie Stump   Fort Collins, CO
 
Agreed, first couple of bolts totally pointless. There is a lot of rope rub towards the top. Jun 1, 2010
Erik in CO
Colorado Springs, CO
Erik in CO   Colorado Springs, CO
Would be an easy first lead for someone. The first two bolts are kind of pointless, though. I don't think they actually protect much of anything. Oct 4, 2009