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Routes in Left Hand Rock

Byron's Ladder S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Dark Days T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gilded Lily S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guilted Willy TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lilies of the Valley T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T-Rect T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triceratops T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bernard and Robert Gillett, 1990
Page Views: 3,606 total, 28/month
Shared By: Mikelsons Mikelsons on Jun 24, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start below the roof on the left side of the southeast face, beneath the obvious line of bolts. Climb around the roof on the right side, then step left onto the slab. Climb straight up on thin hands and great friction for feet. The crux is at the fourth bolt. From there, the route moves closer to the arete on the left. The difficulty eases for about 20 feet then around the 7th bolt it gets steep again. From there, it's easy to the anchor. This is an exciting climb for its lack of positive hands. It could use some more traffic though, there is still a fair amount of lichen.

Location

The route is clearly visible from the Jurassic Park trail. It ascends a fairly flat face, just left of a chimney. There's a roof right at the bottom. Descend by rappel or by lowering with a 60m rope. A 50m would NOT have been long enough!

Protection

This was originally done as a traditional lead. It was retrobolted to have 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor (11 bolts total) by Croy T in October 2006. The anchor has rappel rings.

9 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (3/8" x 3 1/2") with links. Recommend slings at 6th & 8th bolt to reduce potential rope drag. 1 60m rope.
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.8+
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
  5.8+
This is a beautiful climb with bolts just where you want them. A short 5.9 crux at the 4th bolt, and then exciting, exposed climbing to the anchors, which are perfectly placed for a 60m rope. One of the best at the park. Mar 31, 2012
Croy T
Longmont, Co
 
Croy T   Longmont, Co
 
I had a nice email converstation with Bernard G. last fall. After reviewing photos I sent him, he said that it could well be the route he established in the early '90s, but much time had past and he wasn't sure. He added he was pleased the route was bolted as it would see more climbing. I believe he was being gracious and in that spirit I have opted to remove the name I gave the route. All other information I submitted stands. Aug 24, 2009
I led this sometime in June '07, thinking it was Coloradoddity (looks like I wasn't the only one - it matches the description pretty well except for the roof right at the start and Gilded Lilly wasn't listed on Mtn Project at the time). Thought it was a bit stiff for a 5.6 but had a blast. Not sure it felt 5.9, but it would be a different proposition without bolts. Aug 15, 2007
For the record: Robert and I did this climb without the bolts. I don't know who decided to turn it into a bolt route. Jul 9, 2007