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Routes in Left Hand Rock

Byron's Ladder S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Dark Days T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gilded Lily S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guilted Willy TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lilies of the Valley T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T-Rect T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triceratops T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tom Kohlmann and Matt Quinn
Page Views: 2,480 total, 22/month
Shared By: Tom Woods on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

See the photo of Triceratops (which is just to the right of this route), where T-Rect can be seen on the left-hand side of the photo.

T-Rect first runs left and then enters a small runnel (seen at the top left of the above-referenced photo) that veers upwards and right. Stay in the runnel and climb right and upward (crux) for a climb that is probably rated around 5.7 or 5.8. Step left and upwards out of the runnel to avoid the crux for a climb that is probably rated around 5.6 or 5.7. There is a long run-out between the 2nd and 3rd bolts with potential for a groundfall. This section of the climb is fairly easy (5.6 or 5.7), however, and may be protectable using small cams. T-Rect has its own anchors (two bolts with hangers and twist-links), which are separated from those of Triceratops by about 35 horizontal feet.

Like Triceratops, T-Rect is about 80 feet in length and has about 5 bolts."

Location

This is left of Triceratops.

Protection

4 bolts & 2 bolt anchor. A small rack of trad gear may find use in a horizontal crack located about mid-way between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (small C4s or C3s?).

Eds. #0.75 and #1 Camalot fit this slot.
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
Fun little move up top! Oct 17, 2016
Fun, testy, little crux! Oct 3, 2014
Erik in CO
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Erik in CO   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I felt this was a lot of 5.5 friction climbing with a short 5.7 crux. Bolts were well spaced. I didn't feel the distance between bolts 2 and 3 was unreasonable as the climbing was easy, but if you fell you probably would hit the ground. Oct 4, 2009
Croy T
Longmont, Co
Croy T   Longmont, Co
5.7+ 4 bolts to its own anchor with rap links. #0.75 or #1 Camalot will work nicely in the horizontal crack between the 2nd & 3rd bolts. Aug 25, 2009
KateC
 
KateC  
 
This climb is very well protected with a green Camalot in the horizontal crack. Even without it, the moves are solid and easy. No need for an R rating here. Jul 13, 2009
Shane Zumpf
Laramie, WY
 
Shane Zumpf   Laramie, WY
 
There are actually only 4 bolts on the route and the horizontal crack is fairly shallow, but a #0.75 Camalot would go nicely in it. Jun 29, 2009