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Routes in Left Hand Rock

Byron's Ladder S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Dark Days T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gilded Lily S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guilted Willy TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lilies of the Valley T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T-Rect T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triceratops T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Croy
Page Views: 1,482 total · 14/month
Shared By: Croy T on Aug 25, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This has all trad pro. I was unable to uncover any historical references to the line of discontinuous cracks located right of the thoroughly documented Gilded Lily trad and sport lines, so I gave it a go. It starts right of the low roof, heading up using horizontal cracks with small pro. I felt the crux was the red head wall coming up directly under the upper roof, then traversing left before I could place decent pro. I gained the upper left dihedral by using a lower, right, diagonal crack. At the top of the flake, I exited left to the anchor. Very fun. I know I got my money’s worth as my palms are sweating just typing about it! I am including a photo showing both Gilded Lily and Lilies of the Valley. Keep in mind the rope feeds through the Soloist and rope drag is not a factor so the sharp angles in the rope show most of the pro placements. Gilded Lily is the bolted route on climbers' left. Lilies of the Valley is the trad line to climbers' right, or uphill of Gilded Lily.

Location

See the description. Gilded Lily is the bolted route on climbers' left. Lilies of the Valley is the trad line to climbers' right, or uphill of Gilded Lily.

Protection

1/4" to 2".

Photos

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