Type: Trad, 550 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe Cote & Roger Martin, November 6, 1971
Page Views: 11,234 total · 84/month
Shared By: cjdrover on Aug 9, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

UPDATED: Rap bolts have been added at the previously sketchy tree anchors. See comments below!

(OUTDATED: RAP TREE QUESTIONABLE: The middle rappel tree [tree with slings on ledge at end of P2 [Webster's P3] is quite sketchy. I was standing on the uphill side of the tree this weekend when a party was rapping off. I could feel the roots moving under my feet in the thin soil as they rapped. Experiencing this made me happy my partner and I brought one rope and shoes for the walk-off. CONDITION REPORT from M. Morin, May 2017 added here by RHall, NH Admin. SEE PHOTO])

(Updated 6/4/14 - pitch numbers correlate to the Webster guidebook, with recommended pitches to link indicated.)

P1+2: From the "toe" of the cliff, hike 15 or 20 feet left and climb up a moderate corner. There will be a large ledge to your right - continue straight up aiming for the huge tree. Belay from the tree. (180 - 190 feet done as one long pitch,  5.7ish)

P3: Climb up and slightly to the right toward the next big tree, passing a few pins. The steep bulge is best climbed on the left up the vertical weakness. Probably the crux of the route. Belay from the tree.

P4+5: Follow easy slab up about 30 feet from the belay, than diagonal hard right following intricate and hidden features across the increasingly exposed slab. Keen routefinding will be required to maintain the grade and find gear, but it does go at about 5.6 PG. After about 40 feet of climbing up to the right (passing a flake and a groove that some mistake for the crack) you will suddenly stumble on a an absolutely splitter 5.5 hand crack. Follow it until you run out of rope or reach a convenient belay.

P6: Continue up the crack until it ends, then head right to a tree ledge OR escape into the trees on the left. It is possible to rappel from here following a line of anchors to the left of the route.

P7: Keep scrambling up easy ground until you reach a bushy gully that takes you to the summit. Walk off to the climber's right via the trail, ±2 miles to the trailhead.

There are also some bolted face climbs on short walls in the woods if you escape left after Pitch 6.
Suspect Rap Tree

Location

From the "toe" of White's Ledge, look ~20 feet to left for the obvious weakness leading to a small ledge with a small tree (more of a bush).

For descent, take the trail from Mt. Stanton back down to the road/houses (take the trail heading to the climber's right).

Equipment

Standard NE rack, with perhaps some extra hand-sized cams. Rappelling will probably require two ropes, or you can just walk off.

Photos