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Routes in White's Ledge

Cry for Yesterday S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Death meets Death T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
El Camino Non Real T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Endeavor Variation ("Something Different") T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Endeavour T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finesse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Streak, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe Cote & Roger Martin, November 6, 1971
Page Views: 8,020 total · 78/month
Shared By: cjdrover on Aug 9, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

RAP TREE QUESTIONABLE: The middle rappel tree [tree with slings on ledge at end of P2 [Webster's P3] is quite sketchy. I was standing on the uphill side of the tree this weekend when a party was rapping off. I could feel the roots moving under my feet in the thin soil as they rapped. Experiencing this made me happy my partner and I brought one rope and shoes for the walk-off. CONDITION REPORT from M. Morin, May 2017 added here by RHall, NH Admin. SEE PHOTO ]

(Updated 6/4/14 - pitch numbers correlate to the Webster guidebook, with recommended pitches to link indicated.)

P1+2: From the "toe" of the cliff, hike 15 or 20 feet left and climb up a moderate corner. There will be a large ledge to your right - continue straight up aiming for the huge tree. Belay from the tree. (>100 feet, 5.7ish)

P3: Climb up and slightly to the right toward the next big tree, passing a few pins. The steep bulge is best climbed on the left up the vertical weakness. Probably the crux of the route. Belay from the tree.

P4+5: Follow easy slab up about 30 feet from the belay, than diagonal hard right following intricate and hidden features across the increasingly exposed slab. Keen routefinding will be required to maintain the grade and find gear, but it does go at about 5.6 PG. After about 40 feet of climbing up to the right (passing a flake and a groove that some mistake for the crack) you will suddenly stumble on a an absolutely splitter 5.5 hand crack. Follow it until you run out of rope or reach a convenient belay.

P6: Continue up the crack until it ends, then head right to a tree ledge OR escape into the trees on the left. It is possible to rappel from here following a line of anchors to the left of the route.

P7: Keep scrambling up easy ground until you reach a bushy gully that takes you to the summit. Walk off to the climber's right via the trail, ±2 miles to the trailhead.

There are also some bolted face climbs on short walls in the woods if you escape left after Pitch 6.

Location

From the "toe" of White's Ledge, look ~20 feet to left for the obvious weakness leading to a small ledge with a small tree (more of a bush).

For descent, take the trail from Mt. Stanton back down to the road/houses (take the trail heading to the climber's right).

Equipment

Standard NE rack, with perhaps some extra hand-sized cams. Rappelling will probably require two ropes, or you can just walk off.
drewdogg2112
halifax, MA
drewdogg2112   halifax, MA
Climbed this yesterday. Really fun sustained climbing. Its nice to get on pitches that are moderate but actually feel like you are climbing the whole time instead of a few moves and then easy scrambling.

We linked P1-2 and P4-5 then we rapped off from the top of the crack.
So did all the fun stuff in 3 long pitches. My partner led the P3 (really P4-5) and I had to climb up about 10 feet for her to get to the anchor cuz we maxed out the 70m Rope.

I lead P2 (really P3) and had a lot of fun. The step down and around move was definitely spicy for me but really fun.
great climbing with some amazing foliage this year. Oct 18, 2017
Cron
Barrington, NH
 
Cron   Barrington, NH
 
This was my second time out to the cliff. Both times I have gotten lost. Like, hilariously lost. Even with Handren's gps coordinates I lost the faint trail and hiked up way left of the cliff and had to traverse over a few hundred feet until I was above the talus field and the start of the routes. Following the cairns on the way down was super easy. That's just me, approaches are always the crux. Anyways.

The route is terrific. Potential for 4 stars if it gets cleaned up some more? I climbed P1, P2, and P3 (according to Handren's book) separately. I used double ropes on P2 and was stoked on it. Wish I had combined P1 and P2 like other folks on here are saying. P3 had 2 fixed nuts in addition to the 2 pins. Combined P4 and P5 with a 70 m rope and had ~20' to spare, so I don't think you could stretch it with a 60m rope. I think I didn't go far enough out right on the last pitch(s), never saw that splitter hand crack, good excuse to go back.

As for the rap trees. Meh. Not going to win any awards, but didn't feel unsafe. I like the fact that there are no bolts on this thing. Sep 25, 2017
Ken Hamel
Bristol, RI
Ken Hamel   Bristol, RI
Climbed this route for the first time Saturday. A great time! We managed to do the 6 pitches in 3 pitches(on a 60M rope). Ran the first 2 together to the big tree. From there I was advised(by a friend's group in front of us) to go past the rap tree and trend slightly right to a lone oak tree...maybe 5"-6" diameter? Great ledge to stand on, comfortable, no problems at all. About 15-20' below the next threaded anchor/rap station.
From that lone tree, I was able to go straight up, past the rap anchor, and only then trend right about 20'? or so, to the beginning of the crack. No rope drag, went very well, and clean.
Great climb, which I highly recommend.
  • Note, the suspect rap tree in the middle, not a problem at all on that day. We were cognizant of it, but it felt/acted solid as all of our parties(8 people) rapped off of it without a problem.
Sep 11, 2017
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Great climb. I had a blast on this yesterday.

A few tips for the approach. When the description says that the orange blazes are hard to see it's not kidding. There are red blazes and yellow blazes leaving from the Stanton trailhead. Don't take these. Look for the faint orange ones and follow them for a ways until you see that herd path on your right. As of 8/27/18 that rusted old bucket is still there to mark the herd path. If you miss the correct turnoff on the right you'll eventually come to a cairn on the right at another herdpath which will take you to the Pick of the Litter cliff. This was our mistake.

Enjoy the climb! I did the 5.9 variation for the start which takes you to the same belay as if you linked the first two pitches. From there we did the 3rd pitch and extended it to the thread anchor before the hand crack. This allowed my partner to do the full crack all at once to the tree belay. Amazing pitch. Beautiful exposure for a 5.5. Aug 28, 2017
David
 
David  
 
A thoroughly enjoyable climb, well worth doing, especially if you're looking to get on something longer than 2-3 pitches. More beta for those who like to plan out all the details:

Stanton trail approach: If you have a passenger car, do not take the north branch of Covered Bridge Ln. This is a rocky dirt road with some rocks that will scrape the underside. Stay to the left and take the south branch of Covered Bridge Ln. Approach as described in the area overview. The "fairly obvious herd path" is marked with an old rusted bucket as of 8/18/17.

We pitched out the climb according to the Handren guidebook, which is different than what is described here. We did P1, P2+3, P4, P5, P6, P7, for a total of six pitches. At the end of P6, the Handren guidebook describes left and right options for the anchor. Intending to go to the top of the cliff, I went to the right area, but many of the trees were dying and none of them were particularly confidence inspiring, so I traversed back to the left anchor tree (with rap slings). The last pitch was dirty rockaneering but worth it to go to the top. The Handren book says the bushwhack to the top is "a bit of a thrash and not really recommended" but we found it to be fine - there was a faint trail all the way up and the view north from the top of Mt. Stanton was great. It was a pleasant 2 mile hike back down to the car.

At a leisurely pace this took us 6h car to car. Aug 22, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7+
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7+
About 1/2 way up the 1st (180 ft) pitch there's a 1-inch angle piton [photo], about a foot-to-18-inches below it, and a bit left there's a nice "hole" (would be great for a 0.75 Camalot). When I was there 8/16/17 several wasps flew out of the hole, probably a nest inside. Aug 18, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Really consistently fun climb! Standard rack with no doubles was fine for me, but bring extra gear if you are challenging yourself at the grade - especially if you plan to link pitches.

If you plan to hike off, you should park at the hiker's trailhead and use that approach instead of the newer approach. I think it would add quite a bit of time and confusion to the descent hike to have to go all the way back to the Rick's Rd. parking lot.

When approaching from the hiking trailhead, the directions above are good, but in the summer when the leaves are thick you will not be able to see the cliff. After about a half-mile on the faintly orange-blazed trail you will be taking the first, fairly obvious herd path on the right side. Follow the cairns up the talus field and you will end up very close to Endeavor.

Lots of great spots to take a dip in the river off of Rick's Rd. Seemed like plenty of options to sleep in your car or stealth camp on that road as well. Jul 31, 2017
Mike Morin
North Conway, NH
Mike Morin   North Conway, NH
The middle rappel tree [tree with slings on ledge at end of P2 [Webster's P3] is quite sketchy. I was standing on the uphill side of the tree this weekend when a party was rapping off. I could feel the roots moving under my feet in the thin soil as they rapped. Experiencing this made me happy my partner and I brought one rope and shoes for the walk-off. May 29, 2017
Randy Peterson  
  5.7
We climbed this on Saturday and had a great time. We linked up pitches 1+2 to a big tree that we belayed from. That felt about 5.7, fun moves through some cool flakes and features in the rock. Great protection.

Next we did a short second pitch up what I would call the crux. It went up a steep section on a bulge with a mantle move onto a big tree ledge. Again, felt about 5.7. We set up an anchor with the trees here and then got off-route.

We made the decision to climb up and right from here into some really dirty and exposed slab then into a big flakey section. There was reasonable protection and super fun climbing, but the lichen and crumbly rock made it a tad more difficult. Probably about 5.8.

We cut left through a weakness in the rock and met back up with endeavor and cruised the top of the handcrack to a rap station and came to the bottom from there.

Fun day and fun route. Sep 14, 2015
Zac St. Jules
New Hampshire
Zac St. Jules   New Hampshire
Worth mentioning that my partner and I rapped this with double 70m's in two rappels. First from the top to the tree that is the 3rd pitch belay station. Then to the ground. the 70m halfs reached the ground with a few feet to spare. Jul 7, 2015
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.7+ PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.7+ PG13
A fun and worthwhile climb, especially if you feel like having a close to the road adventure. A few things to note: (1) don't even try rapping this with a single 70m (2) road sign and cairns mentioned in Handren guide are missing (or we missed them), get to the route by marching uphill and occasionally finding a "path", (3) this route is surprisingly popular. We thought we were all alone on a Saturday, but when we rapped down there was a very slow party starting the first pitch, a guided group of three waiting, and two more guys arrived. Jun 29, 2015
RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, China
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, China
A nice "lost in the woods" climb. The climbing was fun, but I don't think it was anything to write home about. Definitely a niche route for taking newer folks who want to sample what a slightly higher commitment level is in multipitch but might not be ready for a big, exposed commitment like Cannon. The approach is a bit ambiguous, with spotty cairns in the woods as you approach the wall, so keep your eyes open.

Some thoughts:
- P1 does have some runouts, but gear placements seem to appear right on time. Just be cool.
- The final pitch does get some nice exposure transitioning across the face and into the hand crack.
- Rapping this route definitely requires double 60s, but the tat 'anchors' look a bit dubious. But with some dirtaneering, you can forage your way from the top out up to the summit of Mt. Stanton and have a nice view back towards North Conway and the Mt. Washington Valley. Easy jaunt back down the trail to Rick's Rd.

All in all, a nice, fairly mellow outing that can be a nice alternative when the classic crags like Whitehorse and Cathedral are packed. Aug 13, 2014
JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
I recently climbed Endeavor with a single 70m rope and I cannot recommend trying to rap with just that. The tree in the center of the climb is small, dead and worn halfway thru and cannot be trusted as a rap anchor. If hiking down is not an option I would have the second trail an additional rope just for the rap. Double ropes get you down real quick and leave plenty of time to sample the excellent single pitch routes at the bottom. Aug 12, 2014
Silas Miller
Conway, NH
Silas Miller   Conway, NH
I want to climb Endeavor in the next couple of weeks and I want to know if anyone has rapped off the top with ONE rope? I know the new book calls for two, but I feel there is a way to hike a few feet off the top to the left, rap off a tree and hit the middle tree belay with a 70m rope. Just wondering if anyone has tried this? The middle rap look short enough and the bottom one looks like you could swing out left and hit the slope or another small tree. I try to avoid bringing two ropes whenever possible... Aug 12, 2014
Josh Z
Boston, MA
Josh Z   Boston, MA
Did this two days ago. The black flies were vicious (they're out in force in June), and I have about 50 bites on my face and neck. It had rained the day before, and some of the easier, friction-dependent parts of the route were wet. Scrambling up to the summit and hiking off was fun and well worth it.
This route is not sustained, but it is PG or PG-13 (a little runout) in several places, and route-finding is no joke. On pitch 2 (as described here; it's pitch 3 in the Handren guidebook), there are two "weaknesses" you can climb up through. Take the left one even though it looks harder; the right one looks easier but involves basically swimming through 10' of dirt and dangerously loose rock. Jun 16, 2014
Ryan Howes
Mount Vernon, ME
Ryan Howes   Mount Vernon, ME
Climbed Endeavor yesterday with a guest of Synnott Mountain Guides. This was a first for the both of us. I found the current guidebook GPS coordinates to be helpful for locating the trailhead cairn. We climbed the traditional five pitches on a 60m single rope, and rappelled using a tagline from my pack using all three fixed tree stations to the ground. The rappels were clean and no hang ups for the tagline. Each station had double rings and plenty of cord and slings, some old, some new. Trees are plenty bomber for the job they are doing, but bolt stations may be necessary in the near future for the top two rappels. If I go back with the intention of climbing to the summit, a 70 meter rope would do the job if needing to bail. Five to six rappels and a bit of meandering would do it. Quality moderate route without the crowd. Reminds me of Acadian Granite. Jun 2, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.7
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.7
This is just a great little route in a sunny and quiet place. The upper pitches following the crack are dead easy and way beyond delightful. And if you want a gorgeous view, hike up the 300' to the top of the cliff; it's well worth it and the hiking trail down is beautiful. Feb 4, 2014
chuckdrew
Cape Elizabeth, Maine
chuckdrew   Cape Elizabeth, Maine
Fun route on relatively good rock. Route finding was a bit tricky. We did it in 3 pitches with a single 70 meter rope. An extra #1 and #2 Camalot would have been handy for the last pitch.

We changed into our approach shoes at the last rap station and scrambled up to the top of the mountain. The top of the mountain has a lovely view of the area and is covered with wild blueberries and rasberries, which made for a nice snack on a hot July day! Jul 8, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7+
After climbing this route today I have a couple thoughts. First I would highly recommend running (guidebook) pitches 1 + 2 together. Secondly I think that the rap stations could use some bolts, the trees are starting to look a little suspect. One the 3rd (guidebook) pitch stay truer to the arete and have some wild exposure and fun steep moves. I highly recommend this climb to everyone with good route finding skills, so much fun. Also bring 2 ropes and rappel at the end of the cracked slab (P5), the walk off looks nasty and long, rapping is 3, 60 meter raps and a huge time saver. Apr 21, 2013
AWinters
NH
  5.7
AWinters   NH  
  5.7
Fun route on good rock. Four stars is pushing it.. There's about 350 feet of climbing with another 200 feet of scrambling. A 60m rope will get it done in three roped pitches, the third being a rope-stretcher, otherwise you can build a belay in the crack. Scramble the last 200 feet to the summit. You can either rappel or take the trail off the summit back to the parking area (1.4 miles). Route is grade II IMO Apr 3, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.7
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.7
There is a nice 10a variation to the traditional (i.e. Webster's & Handren's) second pitch. From the left side of the ledge at the end of pitch 1, move up the steepening wall clipping 3 bolts as you go then cut back right to join the second pitch. I think that it is a paul cormier variation. nice climbing. [See route: Endeavor Variation ("Something Different") R Hall edit of comment in italic.] Aug 17, 2009