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Routes in White's Ledge

Cry for Yesterday S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Death meets Death T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
El Camino Non Real T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Endeavor Variation ("Something Different") T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Endeavour T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finesse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Streak, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Elevation: 1,060 ft
GPS: 44.095, -71.226 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 9,390 total, 92/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 19, 2009 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

South face of Mt. Stanton. All day sun lit. Secluded. high quality granite.

Getting There

Off of 302 across the Saco River from Attitash Ski area. Turn onto Covered Bridge Lane and park at hiking Mt. Stanton parking lot. head west through woods a short distance.

Updated Descriptions, R Hall, 2017:
1) Stanton Trail approach (per comment by A Winters] Allow ~20-30 minutes for the approach. Park at Mt. Stanton trailhead, walk ~150 yards from the trailhead, past the right-hand curve then take a left off the main trail onto the easy to miss orange-blazed trail. Follow the trail for about a half mile until you are "under" the cliff, then start your bushwhack uphill. The forest is wide and open and easy to navigate. When you reach the talus under the cliff, follow the cairns to the base. Best approach if you plan to hike off.

Jay Morse (2017) adds: " in the summer when the leaves are thick you will not be able to see the cliff. After about a half-mile on the faintly orange-blazed trail you will be taking the first, fairly obvious obvious herd path on the right side. Follow the cairns up the talus field and you will end up very close to Endeavor. "


2) Rick's Road Approach (NOTE- Rick's road is now in MUCH better shape than it was a few yrs ago) Per comment by 'BALDY', with R Hall updates: 4/10 of a mile past the Y intersection you will see "Ricks Road, on the left", a dirt road that follows the bank of the Saco. Follow this road 0.55 miles until you see an old logging road w/ a small pullout on the right. [see photo, this is the 2nd logging rd you'll come to] You are directly below the cliff. Park, and follow the logging road, bear right at 1st branch and then generally follow the path until you find the cairns that will lead you up through the talus to the base of the cliff. 10-15 mins for the hike in this way. If you are rapping off, this is probably the best approach.

Updated by R Hall with general permission of Bradley White

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Classic Climbing Routes at White's Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Endeavour
Trad 7 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Endeavor Variation ("Something Differ…
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inside Straight
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Endeavour 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Endeavor Variation ("Someth… 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Inside Straight 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in White's Ledge »

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Photos

Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
On Ricks Road, the first area that looks like you might be able to park... is not it. Keep heading down the road and there are two pull off. One has a line of stones and the other has a downed log (below). Heading towards the cliff on either will intersect with the cross country ski path. I didn't see a cairn like the Handren's approach map showed but the trail was well beaten (albeit a few down trees). The talus field does have some loose rock, especially near the top - not really a surprise.

Oct 11, 2015
This crag is really fun and beautiful, the rock quality is excellent, generally very alpine-style features and climbing. Correspondingly, it seems rather easy for how it's graded. Casual and straightforward, old-fashioned almost, in an adventurous way. Sep 11, 2015
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Anyone know info on the bolted sport routes at the bottom of the cliff to the right of Endeavor? Jun 13, 2012
AWinters   NH  
Allow ~20-30 minutes for the approach. Park at Mt. Stanton trailhead, walk ~150 yards from the trailhead, past the right-hand curve then take a left off the main trail onto the easy to miss orange-blazed trail. Follow the trail for about a half mile until you are "under" the cliff, then start your bushwhack uphill. The forest is wide and open and easy to navigate. When you reach the talus under the cliff, follow the cairns to the base. Apr 3, 2012
BALDY
Gilmanton, NH
BALDY   Gilmanton, NH
I took the 2nd, shorter approach, as described in the Webster guide and found it surprisingly easy. 4/10 of a mile past the Y intersection you will see "Ricks Road," a dirt road that follows the bank of the saco. Follow this road until you see an old logging road w/ a small pullout on the right when you are directly below the cliff. Park, and follow the logging road (along with pipe cleaners wrapped around sapplings) until you find the cairns that will lead you up through the talus to the base of the cliff. 10-15 mins for the hike in this way. Oct 26, 2009

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