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El Camino Non Real
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in White's Ledge
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Cry for Yesterday S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Death meets Death T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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El Camino Non Real T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Endeavor Variation ("Something Different") T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Endeavour T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Finesse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inside Straight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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White Streak, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
| Type: | Trad, 550 ft, 5 pitches |
| FA: | George Hurley, Paul Boissonneault, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 120 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Gesek on Jul 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
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Description
This is a direct version of Especially when the October Wind Blows. The description is from the guidebook because I'm pretty sure we were off route above P3. Handren's guide lacks the "unprotected 5.8" description common to many of the routes on this cliff, but there is definitely runnout (but easy) climbing up top.
P1. Climb the right facing corner/crack to top. With gear at your feet, traverse right along a seam(crux) to gain the crack above the last bolt of Finesse. Belay from a pine tree at the top of the crack. 5.8+ (90ft)
P2. Step right and climb the small corner past a pin. Look for a ledge and keep going to a right-facing corner, belay there. 5.8 (70ft)
P3. Move to the left end of the ledge, climb a slab to the middle of three inside corners. Climb the middle corner, then up a right-facing corner formed by a large flake. Belay from a pine tree on a ledge. 5.7 (150ft)
P4. Climb a flake on the left to an open chimney. Face climb up and belay on a tree covered ledge. 5.7 (80ft)
P5. Climb tree-filled ledges to the top. 5.7 (160ft)
P1. Climb the right facing corner/crack to top. With gear at your feet, traverse right along a seam(crux) to gain the crack above the last bolt of Finesse. Belay from a pine tree at the top of the crack. 5.8+ (90ft)
P2. Step right and climb the small corner past a pin. Look for a ledge and keep going to a right-facing corner, belay there. 5.8 (70ft)
P3. Move to the left end of the ledge, climb a slab to the middle of three inside corners. Climb the middle corner, then up a right-facing corner formed by a large flake. Belay from a pine tree on a ledge. 5.7 (150ft)
P4. Climb a flake on the left to an open chimney. Face climb up and belay on a tree covered ledge. 5.7 (80ft)
P5. Climb tree-filled ledges to the top. 5.7 (160ft)
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