Endeavor

UPDATED: Rap bolts have been added at the previously sketchy tree anchors. See comments below!

(Updated 12/2/21 with notes written during a climb done in Oct. Pitch numbers correlate to the Webster and Handren guidebooks, with recommended linked pitches indicated.)

P1+2:  START about 15-20 ft up and left of the "toe" of the cliff.  Climb up an arching corner, then straight up to a ledge with a small tree 35 ft up. [Webster's & Handren's P1 ends here]  Step left and semi-mantle up a right-facing flake, continue up cracks, flakes and jugs (passing 1 or 2 pitons).  Continue up to a big corner and exit left to the pine tree.  190ft (58 m) 5.7/5.7+  Double bolt anchor. See photos.

Webster says of this pitch " A climb not to be underestimated"....of P1&2: "route finding and protection on the pitch...requires patience and determination."

P3: Climb up and slightly to the right into a wide corner-system, passing a few pins. The steep bulge is best climbed by leaving the corner on the left, climbing up the vertical weakness and then stepping back to the right up high and then making a big step back into the corner and up to easier terrain.  Belay from the new double bolt anchor. 100 ft  5.7 

 Climbing directly over the bulging “face” to the upper corner is more difficult and not well protected. Climbing the yellow face 20 ft right of the corner, then moving left back on the face can be protected ( especially with nuts) but is about 5.9 

P4: Not a very obvious route since you can't see the crack you're headed for from the belay. Do NOT miss this crack!  (The "obvious route is "The White Streak", see Variation 1)  Move up 30 +/- ft, then up and right another 30+/- ft, (climbing on patina-ed rock not unlike that found in Nevada's Red Rocks) to intercept the "Endeavor Crack" . There is a reasonably comfortable gear belay stance about 30 ft up the crack. 120 +/- ft  5.5-5.6 PG-13   [Note- Brad White likes to start this pitch by traversing right nearly directly off the belay (above the rockfall area) and intercepting the crack lower down. ]

P5: Continue up the crack, near its top move left across the face on ledges to a new double bolt anchor on a small tree ledge.  120+/- ft  5.5-5.6  If rapping off this is the top. 

P4 Variation - "The White Streak" - This is the "obvious route" from the double bolt belay at the end of P3, and is worth doing after Endeavor's P4 & 5 if you have time. . Climb straight up from the belay then move right to a shallow crack. Then up to belay in a wide crack/chimney just above a now-dead oak tree.  Slings on block. 120+/- ft 5.6 PG-13 

P5 Variation- Continue up a bit on the right, eventually moving left to the same double bolt anchor mentioned in P5 above   100-120 ft  5.5-5.6 PG    P4 and 5 can be combined with a 70m rope. 

Descent - Rap the route with double ropes. The rap from the P3 bolts to the big pine tree can be made with a single 70m (maybe even a single 60m)  

An Aug 9, 2024 comment indicates the route can be rapped in two long raps with doubled 70m ropes. Bolts at top of P5 to Bolts at top of P3, then to the ground. Wow! Last rap must be a rope-stretcher but they say they did it! 

Although one COMMENT says "A few things to note: (1) don't even try rapping this with a single 70m " It is probably possible to rap the route in 5 raps with one single 70m (using the slung block mentioned in Variation-P4) but would probably require an interesting swing to a tree ledge on the rap off the big pine tree of "P1+P2".  

Walk Off - It is possible to walk off by scrambling (some may wish a rope) pretty much up from the end of P5.  It is further than you may think up to the Stanton trail, then descend this (to the right, i.e. East) about 2 miles to the trailhead in the old housing development. Then about another mile to your car. 

There are also some bolted face climbs on short walls in the woods if you escape left after Pitch 5.

From the "toe" of White's Ledge, look ~20 feet to left for the obvious weakness leading to a small ledge with a small tree (more of a bush).

For descent, take the trail from Mt. Stanton back down to the road/houses (take the trail heading to the climber's right).

Standard NE rack, with perhaps some extra hand-sized cams. Rappelling will probably require two ropes, or you can just walk off.