Type: Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe Cote & Roger Martin, November 6, 1971
Page Views: 14,823 total · 91/month
Shared By: cjdrover on Aug 9, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

UPDATED: Rap bolts have been added at the previously sketchy tree anchors. See comments below!

(Updated 12/2/21 with notes written during a climb done in Oct. Pitch numbers correlate to the Webster and Handren guidebooks, with recommended linked pitches indicated.)

P1+2:  START about 15-20 ft up and left of the "toe" of the cliff.  Climb up an arching corner, then straight up to a ledge with a small tree 35 ft up. [Webster's & Handren's P1 ends here]  Step left and up a right-facing flake (passing 1 or 2 pitons) moving up to a thin crack which is climbed (P1 crux?). Continue up to a big corner and exit left to the pine tree.  190ft (58 m) 5.7/5.7+  See photos.

Webster says of this pitch " A climb not to be underestimated"....of P1&2: "route finding and protection on the pitch...requires patience and determination."

P3: Climb up and slightly to the right toward the next big tree, passing a few pins. The steep bulge is best climbed on the left of the corner, climbing up the vertical weakness and stepping back to the right up high and then making a big step up to easier terrain.  Probably the crux of the route. Belay from the new double bolt anchor on the left. 100 ft  5.7+/5.8- 

  It is also possible to climb this section using thin crack(s) on the steep yellow-face to the right of the corner, moving back left to the same big step up. Possibly better protected but more difficult (5.8+ / 5.9?).

P4: Not a very obvious route since you can't see the crack you're headed for from the belay. Do NOT miss this crack!  (The "obvious route is "The White Streak", see Variation 1)  Move up 30 +/- ft, then up and right another 30+/- ft, (climbing on patina-ed rock not unlike that found in Nevada's Red Rocks) to intercept the "Endeavor Crack" . There is a reasonably comfortable gear belay stance about 30 ft up the crack. 120 +/- ft  5.5-5.6 PG-13   [Note- Brad White likes to start this pitch by traversing right nearly directly off the belay (above the rockfall area) and intercepting the crack lower down. ]

The "un-obvious P4".....Reaching the "Endeavor Crack" on P4 of Endeavor. Here, many climbers inadvertently follow the route "White Streak" up towards the blocky corner and oak tree.

P5: Continue up the crack, near its top move left across the face on ledges to a new double bolt anchor on a small tree ledge.  120+/- ft  5.5-5.6  If rapping off this is the top. 

The P4&5 ncrack is so dreamy.

 

P4 Variation - "The White Streak" - This is the "obvious route" from the double bolt belay at the end of P3, and is worth doing after Endeavor's P4 & 5 if you have time. . Climb straight up from the belay then move right to belay at a single oak tree in a wide crack/chimney. Slings on block. 120 +/- ft 5.6 PG-13 

P5 Variation- Continue up, eventually moving left to the same double bolt anchor mentioned in P5 above   100-120 ft  5.5-5.6 PG

Descent - Rap the route with double ropes. The rap from the P3 bolts to the big pine tree can be made with a single 70m (maybe even a single 60m)  

Although one COMMENT says "A few things to note: (1) don't even try rapping this with a single 70m " It is probably possible to rap the route 5 raps with one single 70m (using the slung block mentioned in Variation-P4) but would probably require an interesting swing to a tree ledge on the rap off the big pine tree of "P1+P2".  

Walk Off - It is possible to walk off by scrambling (some may wish a rope) pretty much up from the end of P5.  It is further than you may think to the Stanton trail, then descend this (to the right, i.e. East) about 2 miles to the trailhead in the old housing development. Then about another mile to your car. 

There are also some bolted face climbs on short walls in the woods if you escape left after Pitch 5.

Location

From the "toe" of White's Ledge, look ~20 feet to left for the obvious weakness leading to a small ledge with a small tree (more of a bush).

For descent, take the trail from Mt. Stanton back down to the road/houses (take the trail heading to the climber's right).

Equipment

Standard NE rack, with perhaps some extra hand-sized cams. Rappelling will probably require two ropes, or you can just walk off.

Photos