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Routes in Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall a.k.a. "The Butt Rocks Wall"

1902 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bad Medicine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bitch Fucking Rat Sticks! S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corn Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimptonight S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dr. Feelgood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Euphamiah Beresford Memorial, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
July 4th S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love in an Elevator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Once Bitten, Twice Shy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panama! S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rebel Yell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rude Awakening S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
San Francisco, CA S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
She's Only 17 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Simply Ravishing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sink It and Wink It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steak & Tequila S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Mike McNeil
Page Views: 134 total · 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jul 3, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This slightly overhung route has just about everything an experienced climber would want in a warm-up and a beginning ten climber would want in a new challenge. Starts on huge, juggy holds that soon get smaller and harder to find as you make your way up the arete. Start heading left onto the face after the third bolt and start pocket pulling to a fairly difficult finish.

Location: 5th route from the left hand side of the wall.

This used to be the very last route on the EBM wall you would come to as you hike in the south-westerly direction from the paved parking lot. It is now listed as route 4 in the new Spearfish Canyon guidebook. This route is easy to recognize because the rock is bright yellow. There are four 5.11/5.12 climbs to the left of the Corn Route which should be attempted since they are superb.

Protection

7 bolts and closed shut anchors.

Photos

I climbed this route on 6/1/13. There was a quickdraw hanging on the third bolt. If it is yours send an email to RockClimber83@gmail.com describing the quickdraw and I will ship it to you. Jun 9, 2013
Leeanne
Denver, CO
Leeanne   Denver, CO
There is an awesome pocket up high on this route...but it was filled with wasps that stung me. Watch out! Sep 5, 2016

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