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Routes in Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall a.k.a. "The Butt Rocks Wall"
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1902 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Another Route S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bad Medicine S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bitch Fucking Rat Sticks! S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Corn Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crimptonight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dr. Feelgood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Euphamiah Beresford Memorial, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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July 4th S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Love in an Elevator S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Once Bitten, Twice Shy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Panama! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rebel Yell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rude Awakening S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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San Francisco, CA S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Simply Ravishing S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sink It and Wink It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Steak & Tequila S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Mike McNeil |
| Page Views: | 935 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jul 3, 2009 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
This slightly overhung route has just about everything an experienced climber would want in a warm-up and a beginning ten climber would want in a new challenge. Starts on huge, juggy holds that soon get smaller and harder to find as you make your way up the arete. Start heading left onto the face after the third bolt and start pocket pulling to a fairly difficult finish.
Location: 5th route from the left hand side of the wall.
This used to be the very last route on the EBM wall you would come to as you hike in the south-westerly direction from the paved parking lot. It is now listed as route 4 in the new Spearfish Canyon guidebook. This route is easy to recognize because the rock is bright yellow. There are four 5.11/5.12 climbs to the left of the Corn Route which should be attempted since they are superb.
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