Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Lee Treveen
Page Views: 349 total · 4/month
Shared By: BBQ on Sep 25, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Oh yeah! This thing is worth the effort! Mind blowing moves!

A long, involved climb with big jugs and small, tricky moves. Starts on an overhanging bulge that leads to some powerful dance moves all up a funky arete.

Hold on and hold on tight at the very beginning. The move to get you past the first bolt is all there if you can just figure it out. Hint, swing your hips, do a drop knee and then flag and reach. The sequences after the second bolt will have you second guessing and the more than body length stretches between bolts will have your heart racing as you wonder if you are going to be able to make that next clip.

Exciting! A daring, axis-bold-as-love kind of climb where the leader needs to sack up and commit to staying on.

I believe the 5.10c rating simply comes from the fact that this climb is no gimmie it might actually go at 11- but the large holds when you need them, if you can find them, make it more of a tenish sort of hell on earth. However, this is definately a 10+ that no "fresh from the gym leader" is going to take down in one go...and that's the way it should be! You learn more about climbing by getting worked and shut down than by sending.

This route is phenomenal! It deserves a page in your history book! I walked right up a 5.10a at the Big Picture Gully known "Everything's Big in Texas" after projecting Cokes and Crowbars for two straight months of after school sessions and weekends but this climb was a like a bullet with my name on it. It shot me down and sent me home with a limp. I then walked by this route for two straight seasons to 5.11 climbs I liked before I tried it again and nearly died from the fear of the unknown and the suspense of that little voice in the back of my head screaming out, "Will I send...or shit myself?!"

DO THIS ROUTE! Earn your stoke! This climb is one of Lee Terveen's finest pieces of work at this grade and deserves to have your blood, sweat and tears poured all over it before you send in a style that is simply ravishing!

Location: On an arete in the middle of the wall.

EBM/Buttrocks wall sandwhiched in between July 4th and Rude Awakening. If you have the Spearfish Canyon, The VC and Other Black Hills Limestone guidebook by Mike Cronin this route is listed as #9.

Protection

10 quickdraws. Open shut anchors.

Photos

0 Comments