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Routes in Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall a.k.a. "The Butt Rocks Wall"

1902 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bad Medicine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bitch Fucking Rat Sticks! S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corn Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimptonight S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dr. Feelgood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Euphamiah Beresford Memorial, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
July 4th S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love in an Elevator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Once Bitten, Twice Shy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panama! S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rebel Yell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rude Awakening S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
San Francisco, CA S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
She's Only 17 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Simply Ravishing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sink It and Wink It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steak & Tequila S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 69 ft
FA: Mike McNeil
Page Views: 754 total · 7/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jul 3, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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This route is tucked WAY back in the corner of the EBM wall, and often overlooked as people make their way down the trail. Don't be one of those unfortunate prospectors who misses out on their chance to do some unusual, interesting and very fun stemming and face climbing up this unique Spearfish Canyon route.


Right hand side of the wall. Look for this route by getting up on top of the blocky rock in front of the trail and working your way into the corner. 5th route from the right hand side of the wall.


9 bolts and closed shut anchors. BELAYER BEWARE! Keep your lead climber on a short leash while doing this climb. Too much slack might result in a ride that ends badly.


NathanM Morey
NathanM Morey  
The bolts can easily be clipped from the chimney. This is how we climbed the route and it is the path of least resistance. The 9+ grade eliminates climbing options within the bolt line. Mar 23, 2014
The fact that this route is rated so poorly almost kept me from climbing it which would have been super unfortunate as this was actually a really interesting climb. It was pretty different from anything else I've seen in the canyon with the only real downsides being that it's kind of sandy and has some dead branches at the top that probably wouldn't be a problem if more people climbed this. May 29, 2018

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