Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jamie Coin
Page Views: 345 total · 6/month
Shared By: BBQ on Feb 18, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Eat em' and smile! The latest and greatest addition to the EBM/Butt Rocks family! DO THE DIRECT START! There is a crux right off the deck that is totally worth doing...however, many flailing climbers will be tempted to use the easier start for The Corn Route and traverse left to the first bolt.

Either way you are on your way to pleasure town! Use sick pockets, crimps and make a few hard moves that will turn you into Sammy Hanger if you can't pull em' off. If you happen to eat up the mid-route moves, its time to take down the layback flaky crack feature that will be sure to have your arms burning and your brain yearning for the anchors! And just like the 1990's version of Van Halen, this route is good, clean fun without any David Lee Choss!

Location

4th route from the left-most part of the Butt Rocks Wall. Sandwiched in between Crimptonight and The Corn Route. A great moderate to fill the need for those who don't really want to climb 5.12 just yet.

Protection

bring 10 quickdraws. Stick clip the first bolt.

Photos

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harrison t
Black Hills, SD
 
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
 
Fun .11b if started off Crimptonight or Corn Route. Maybe a little harder than .11b if doing the direct start. You have to crank on some sweet monos to get past the first bolt. Mar 11, 2014