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Routes in Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall a.k.a. "The Butt Rocks Wall"

1902 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bad Medicine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bitch Fucking Rat Sticks! S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corn Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimptonight S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dr. Feelgood S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Euphamiah Beresford Memorial, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
July 4th S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love in an Elevator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Once Bitten, Twice Shy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panama! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rebel Yell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rude Awakening S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
San Francisco, CA S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
She's Only 17 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Simply Ravishing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sink It and Wink It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steak & Tequila S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 52 total, 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on May 15, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

The sportiest 5.11b on the wall! Dr. Feelgood instantly straps on a pumpy start that requires a mantle guaranteed to get your veins bulging with anticipation for the rush about to come. This climb is gonna make ya feel alright with its tecky midsection crux that deals you out a series of small pockets to a big hold that might smoke you if you don't hit it just right. The magical monos and dapper duos make you wish you had better feet until you get to a large ledge where you'd expect there to be a break from this funky trip. The headrush ain't over until the very end where the finishing moves get hard yet satisfying right up until the last injectable drop of Taster's Choice. Hard to onsight. The moves are all there if you know how to use them and this route is guaranteed to have you chasing that dragon whip after whip after delectible whip. Need a fix of technical yet sporty 5.11b? Then this route is just what the Doctor ordered!

Location

Dr. Feelgood is to the right of the Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Climb and two, black bolted 5.12's known as Panama and Bad Medicine. It starts in a dihedral underneath a blocky roof. A bulletproof wonder. Go get some! Not a great winter route because it stays shady, but an awesome summer route because of a lack of poison ivy. Gets constant sending temperature shade due to the funny angle it has on the wall which is prone to escaping sun exposure.

Protection

9 Quickdraws and closed shut anchors. Use a longer draw for the first bolt if you have one to keep the rope drag minimal and the Taster's Choice set to maximum gnar.

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