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Routes in The G-Spot

Bumpin the Gate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drillin' in My Dreams S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drip of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kagels and Locks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback and Relax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Lickin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She Goes Both Ways S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: tim kemple sr. winter 2000
Page Views: 643 total, 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 25, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

This is the line on the far left... Packs way more of a punch than it looks... The top climbing wouldnt be too bad if it wasn't covered in Lichen but...it is... I pulled some of it out of the important holds but there is more to be done... Bring a brush...

Climb up the slight invert which ever way you see fit... I stayed right of the bolts but it could go straight up... Some interesting footwork and big reaches get you past a 2nd bolt crux and on to fun moves leading to the upper crux which is reaching the chains in a sea of Lichen... I eventually went up left of the anchor and made it happen but some traffic or a good brushing would be in order for the top part...

Location

Far left route at the G-Spot...

Protection

3 bolts to anchor...

Photos

Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
I thought this route was cake compared to Drilling in My Dreams to its right. It is like Gulliver's but not nearly as sharp. And the holds are bigger. Nov 21, 2015
jay davis
New Hampshire
  5.10d
jay davis   New Hampshire
  5.10d
i agree with the description and comments - the route looks pretty casual from the ground, but it can get desperate in a hurry up top, especially with the lichen overgrowth that makes it tough to find holds. very tricky to onsight.

i stayed to the right at the third bolt after pawing around on the left side for a bit - it felt about 10d/11a the way i did it, but i would not be surprised to learn that i missed some marginally better holds out left. Jul 31, 2013
S. Neoh
5.11a
S. Neoh  
5.11a
Yeah, very nearly as sharp as Gulliver's. The top has gotten quite filled in with lichen which made clipping the anchors a bit unnerving. I wish I had brought a big wire brush for the top.
Tough to on-sight and quite technical for only 10+ feet of 'real' climbing. I stayed left of the three bolts. 1-1/2 stars. May 27, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.11a
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.11a
This is a spiny (reminding me a little of Gulliver's Travels) and technical face climb that awards those who enjoy stemming. Stay to the right of the 2nd bolt as you head up. A stance at the third (and final) bolt will allow a shake before heading up to the anchors. Out left is the way to go, but the holds aren't fantastic. Don't expect a nice feeling jug to clip from. A little spooky until you clip the anchors. Nov 20, 2011