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Routes in The G-Spot

Bumpin the Gate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drillin' in My Dreams S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drip of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kagels and Locks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback and Relax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Lickin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She Goes Both Ways S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: dean wishart 2002
Page Views: 943 total, 9/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 25, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

If i got the right name on this one the name would make sense because this could very easily be done on gear but there are bolts so i guess she could go both ways...

I wasn't sure about this one looking up at it but it turned out to be really good... one of the best routes out here... The bottom seeps but you can avoid the wet by traversing in to the crack from the left on good edges...

Straight forward, follow the bolted crack up a bunch of fingerlocks jams and laybacks to a bulge which marks the mantel move crux... Balance your way over the bulge and climb left to the quick clip anchors...

Location

The crack in the middle of the main area of the G-Spot...

Protection

5-6 bolts to quick clips or practice with some trad gear...

Photos

This is a great climb! Tough for the grade. Right off the bat, as you are getting to the second bolt, it's in-your-face climbing. From there it remains sustained and tricky all the way to the anchor. Memorable! Aug 1, 2017
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.8
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.8
I really enjoyed this one. Fun finger locks!

A fun 5.10ish TR variation is to head up between Lichen Lickin and the wet start of She Goes Both Ways. Encroaching a little on LL, head straight up to a knob on the overlap above (horizontally aligned w/ the 2nd bolt on LL). Work your feet up and either make a BIG move to a decent left hand side pull or dance (and balance) your feet up high to gain a tiny crimp before reaching statically to the side pull. A few non-presenting jugs give access to the 10ft of She Goes Both Ways. Enjoyable. Nov 20, 2011