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Routes in The G-Spot

Bumpin the Gate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drillin' in My Dreams S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drip of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kagels and Locks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layback and Relax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Lickin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She Goes Both Ways S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: fred price 6/01
Page Views: 662 total · 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 25, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This one i found to be a mix of good and bad...Really good climbing! Kinda confusing bolting... The biggest thing i noticed was the bottom seemed perhaps over bolted (which was fine with me) and the top was a bit thin on pro in comparison (Broken clipping hold?)... I found myself at an upper crux with no clipping stance a good ways (by rumney standards) above the last bolt... It did look like a hold may have broken here...

The route goes like this, start near the start of Layback and relax 5.10a/b... Climb left in to a good layback section and up through a thin section to a rest... Another thin crux heads left past a tough spooky bolt and up some 5.10ish moves to the anchors...

Location

Second route to the left on the Main Area of the G-Spot...

Protection

6 bolts to anchor...

Photos

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Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.11a
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.11a
I don't mind that the 2nd/3rd bolts were a little close. With the way that the bottom was bolted, I would have expected an additional bolt above and left of the rest. Lichen is hiding some much welcomed jugs (spiny) to the right of the anchors. I got a nice little pump after finishing this one. :) Nov 20, 2011
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a/b
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a/b
As of November, 2015, there's no shortage of bolts on the upper part of the route. For 5.11 climbers, this one is a hard one to onsight. It's sustained and has a number of tricky sequences that are difficult to figure out on your first attempt. Definitely a good climb. (And a finger workout.) Nov 21, 2015
S. Neoh  
Thanks for the update, Nick. Glad you are still making it outdoors! We skipped this climb the last time we were @ G cause bolting at the top looked kinda of sparse given how small the holds looked from the ground. I am going to assume it is .11b and give it a go in 2016. Nov 22, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a/b
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a/b
Soon, you'll like it. It's not much to look at, but it climbs really well. It's technical and sustained throughout. I pretty much went bolt-to-bolt on my first attempt, but I got it (barely) on my second go. Now, of course, I kind of cheated, because I was climbing with the aid of the walking, talking, human-beta-machine (Ian Grant). Nov 22, 2015
S. Neoh  
Well, Nick, congrats are def in order then! Nice.
Ha-ha, no worries. In this kind of situation, I will try to get one of my peeps to take the bait and go for the onsight. First, I will sponge his/her Beta, then have them clean and tick all the key holds on the way down. Draws pre-hung and all that. Sleazy but I need to maximize the little true talent that I have. Otherwise ....... Nov 22, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a/b
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a/b
That's exactly my method! My son Ian makes it real easy for his decrepit old man. (He should be paid as a guide.) Nov 7, 2016

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