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Routes in Mule Hollow Wall

Center Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everything And Nothing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Explorien T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glasnost T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ground Glass, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High on Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Implorien S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Crack Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left of Center Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ravages Of Time S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sands of Time, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,558 total, 34/month
Shared By: Mark Goodro on May 13, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The guide lists this as 3 pitches, 5.6R, 5.5R, 5.5R. Since then someone has added 4 new sets of bolts making an almost even 5 pitches. Pitch length approx 100 ft, 100 ft, 110 ft, 100 ft, and 85 feet. First two and last two pitches can be combined with a single 60m rope without excessive rope drag.

Location

Wall is 3/4 mi up Mule Hollow gulch. Route starts up the face 75 feet left of Jam Crack, right of where a pair of diagonal cracks hit the ground, just left of a small vegetated crack. Need 2 ropes or a 70m rope to rap down, third pitch is too long for a 60m rope. Walk-off is long, vegetated, and dirty; both walk-off options take far longer than a rap down the face.

Protection

Standard rack, small to medium pro. Runout face sections have been bolted, no pitches are R anymore. Bolted belay stations at the top of each of the five pitches.

Photos

Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Great route for the grade. Felt more exposed and consistent than steorts(though the moss detracts from the rock quality) as there aren't as many fat ledges. Medium jugs down low lead to hero buckets up higher. May 14, 2015
DrApnea
Wenatchee, WA
  5.5
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
  5.5
Felt like 5.5. Fun but not more than a 2 star route unless you give it an extra because of the length. 5 Bolted anchors are there to rap off with a 60M rope when done. The retro-bolted version of this route (Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed) needs to be pulled. There are more than enough natural gear placements here even if you only bring a set of nuts, hexes, and slings. Jun 21, 2012
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.6 PG13
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.6 PG13
You should. Give them numbers too so you can keep track of how many established lines you've retrobolted and claimed as FAs.
Don't forget to engrave the hardware too... Jul 29, 2010
B,
Nice route name "Nebulous Squeeze"....will have to keep that one on the back burner.
Thanks! Jul 29, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.6 PG13
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.6 PG13
The bolts indeed belong to Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed, a nebulous squeeze located within feet of Center Face. Given that the existing trad line follows a number of discontinuous cracks and weaknesses peppered all over the face you end up zigzagging between belays and (gasp) crossing/merging with/climbing over the bolted line.

Just to be on the safe side avoid the bolts and wander around a few feet to the side of the bolted line where protection opportunities are plentiful but a bit spaced. A bit of creativity is required but you'll feel safe with a standard rack up to a #2, no doubles needed. If you don't want to make it too R bring plenty of long runners and go heavier on the small cams.

Use the bolted belays of DDD or run it in 3 pitches with the top of P1 being the only annoying trad belay (shallow alcove about 40m up, small nuts and cams). The top of P2 (big treed ledge) has a few trees to sling or you can sit behind a block and use a good old body belay.

5 single rope raps or walk off if you want to keep the adventure going. Jul 26, 2010
Mark Goodro
Puget Sound, Washington
 
Mark Goodro   Puget Sound, Washington
 
It looks like the bolts I clipped on this one are part of a new route, Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed Jun 19, 2009