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Routes in Mule Hollow Wall

Center Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everything And Nothing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Explorien T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glasnost T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ground Glass, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High on Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Implorien S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Crack Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left of Center Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ravages Of Time S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sands of Time, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tony Calderone, Kathy Lagerquist, 1992
Page Views: 656 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tryhard Scoville on Jun 10, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is a variation of Jam Crack Route. 70M rope is recommended for descent.

Pitch 1 (5.6): Climb first pitch of Jam Crack. With a longer rope you can skip the first set of anchor bolts you see and climb another 25 feet or so to a bushy alcove with a chain anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.5): Continue straight up following the Jam Crack weakness. Crack will quickly start to deepen into a shallow dihedral and climbing quality will degrade somewhat. Climb until you are even with the big bushy ledge (Top of Jam Crack 2nd Pitch). You have 2 options - build a belay in deep crack system, or traverse left and belay from the chains at top of Jam Crack 2nd pitch (we chose the 2nd option).

Pitch 3 (5.8+): If belaying from chain anchor, head up and right and traverse back into large crack/dihedral. Stay within dihedral, but right of crack for good rock and good pro. Pull over bulge and continue to large roof that curves to right in large arc. Ruckman guide shows a rightward traverse under this roof followed by a straight shot to the top, but I couldn't resist the opportunity to pull the roof (good gear, 5.8ish). Belay from gear or horn at the top of route.

Descent: Rappel DDD route (5 raps, 70M rope). Alternatively, descend old school walk off.

Location

See Jam Crack description.

Descent: Rappel DDD route (5 raps, 70M rope). Alternatively, descend old school walk off.

Protection

Standard rack. Micro cams through #2 Camalot. Larger gear is not needed. Optional doubles: .75, #1 Camalot.

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Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
This route is unfortunately home to several briar patches now. The arete/face to the left goes at about 5.6R. May 30, 2016