Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches
FA: Tony Calderone, Kathy Lagerquist, 1992
Page Views: 1,660 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tryhard Scoville on Jun 10, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This is a variation of Jam Crack Route. 70M rope is recommended for descent.

Pitch 1 (5.6): Climb first pitch of Jam Crack. With a longer rope you can skip the first set of anchor bolts you see and climb another 25 feet or so to a bushy alcove with a chain anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.5): Continue straight up following the Jam Crack weakness. Crack will quickly start to deepen into a shallow dihedral and climbing quality will degrade somewhat. Climb until you are even with the big bushy ledge (Top of Jam Crack 2nd Pitch). You have 2 options - build a belay in deep crack system, or traverse left and belay from the chains at top of Jam Crack 2nd pitch (we chose the 2nd option).

Pitch 3 (5.8+): If belaying from chain anchor, head up and right and traverse back into large crack/dihedral. Stay within dihedral, but right of crack for good rock and good pro. Pull over bulge and continue to large roof that curves to right in large arc. Ruckman guide shows a rightward traverse under this roof followed by a straight shot to the top, but I couldn't resist the opportunity to pull the roof (good gear, 5.8ish). Belay from gear or horn at the top of route.

Descent: Rappel DDD route (5 raps, 70M rope). Alternatively, descend old school walk off.

Location Suggest change

See Jam Crack description.

Descent: Rappel DDD route (5 raps, 70M rope). Alternatively, descend old school walk off.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack. Micro cams through #2 Camalot. Larger gear is not needed. Optional doubles: .75, #1 Camalot.

Photos

- No Photos -
loading