Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,895 total · 46/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Aug 29, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on the main wall on the right end of the cliff approx. 100 left of a pinnacle. Look for the obvious, prominent crack.

Pitch one, 5.6:Climb the crack, with good protection up to the anchors. If memory serves me correctly, I believe I passed what appeared to be a rappel anchor and belayed on a sandy notch/ledge. But obviously use your best judgement.

Pitch two, 5.5:Continue up and move slightly to the left until your rope runs out or to a convenient belay spot.

Pitch three, 5.5:Continue straight up to the top of the cliff or angle left on easier ramps moving upward to gain the top of the cliff.

The last two pitches are obviously easier than the first, however the protection is a little bit harder to come by, so beginners (or the responsible) should not pass up placements on the last two pitches.

To the motivated bolt placing experienced climber: This is a great wall, but the descent takes away from the experience. In my humble opinion, a bolted rappel line down this wall would benefit the community. I would be willing to help anyone that feels comfortable in that role.

Descent (two options):Head south (left) from the top of the wall to a gully which is the southern end of the main wall. Two 60 foot rappels are needed to reach the base of the wall. The gully however is full of really big loose rocks, etc. and makes the descent seem kind of sketchy.

Or

Continue south to the next gully that seems appealing and downclimb back to the base of the wall. This isn't much fun either, but you don't have to rappel.

Protection

Standard trad rack.

Photos