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Routes in Mule Hollow Wall

Center Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everything And Nothing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Explorien T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glasnost T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ground Glass, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High on Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Implorien S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam Crack Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left of Center Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ravages Of Time S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sands of Time, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,686 total, 47/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Aug 29, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on the main wall on the right end of the cliff approx. 100 left of a pinnacle. Look for the obvious, prominent crack.

Pitch one, 5.6:Climb the crack, with good protection up to the anchors. If memory serves me correctly, I believe I passed what appeared to be a rappel anchor and belayed on a sandy notch/ledge. But obviously use your best judgement.

Pitch two, 5.5:Continue up and move slightly to the left until your rope runs out or to a convenient belay spot.

Pitch three, 5.5:Continue straight up to the top of the cliff or angle left on easier ramps moving upward to gain the top of the cliff.

The last two pitches are obviously easier than the first, however the protection is a little bit harder to come by, so beginners (or the responsible) should not pass up placements on the last two pitches.

To the motivated bolt placing experienced climber: This is a great wall, but the descent takes away from the experience. In my humble opinion, a bolted rappel line down this wall would benefit the community. I would be willing to help anyone that feels comfortable in that role.

Descent (two options):Head south (left) from the top of the wall to a gully which is the southern end of the main wall. Two 60 foot rappels are needed to reach the base of the wall. The gully however is full of really big loose rocks, etc. and makes the descent seem kind of sketchy.

Or

Continue south to the next gully that seems appealing and downclimb back to the base of the wall. This isn't much fun either, but you don't have to rappel.

Protection

Standard trad rack.
Sean A Smith
South Salt Lake, UT
  5.6 PG13
Sean A Smith   South Salt Lake, UT
  5.6 PG13
There seem to be a lot of different info on this route so here's my two cents...

Protection: Single set of nuts, single set X4s from .1-.3 (or equivalent), single set of C4s from .4-#3 (or equivalent), 8 alpine draws. There weren't many options for gear after the first pitch and all the belays have chains so you really don't need much gear. If you are nervous about the crack you could bring a few more pieces.

Ascent: All of the belays have chains so that's what you're looking for.
-Pitch one: Climb the crack past a rap station (no chains just two bolts and some webbing) that will be on your right to an alcove with a nice place to stand and a set of chains.
-Pitch two: Climb left out of the alcove and trend left out of the big broken crack system onto a face towards a treed ledge with another set of chains.
-Pitch Three: Don't climb towards the anchors that you see on the face to the left. Climb right of the chains to a set of chains that just hang over the edge of the huge ledge.

Decent: We had a 70 meter rope and just rapped the route.
-The first rap goes down to the chains that you pass on the face to the left of the route.
-Second rap goes to the top of pitch two.
-Third rap goes to the top of pitch one.
-Fourth rap goes to the rap station with webbing to the right of the route.
-Fifth rap hits the bottom. Aug 10, 2015
morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
 
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
 
first pitch is 4 stars - well protected and fun, sustained for the grade. 2nd and 3rd pitches get 3 stars - fun romp up easy jugs. The walk off sucks! Bring and extra rope or tag line and rap from the chains Jan 3, 2015
Josh Allred
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
Josh Allred   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
2.5 stars for the first pitch, solitude and awesome scenery. Jul 22, 2013
rging
Salt Lake City, Ut
 
rging   Salt Lake City, Ut
 
First pitch is great, last two forgettable. Do the 5.7 if you are going to hike up to this wall. May 9, 2012
skrivan  
we climbed it today. pretty good quality rock. after that hike, i'd definitely do all 3 pitches. skip the blue-cord anchor on the way up, as noted in the above comment---go another 20 feet to an alcove.

the upper pitches are fun low-angle jug-fests---i didnt feel runout too badly, (but for sure the few placements are tricky). as mentioned, dont go to the chain anchor that you can see from the second belay....that must be a convenient rap anchor if you only have a single 60.

the last 15 minutes of the approach kind of sucked and we had to bushwack a bit to get back on the "trail". We were right on 5 hours car to car.

Gear: go lighter than we did. you dont NEED a number 3 camalot or anything larger than a 2 (we placed the #3 once, just 'cuz we had it). I'd take medium to large stoppers, 2 number 1 cams, 2 number 2's, a .75, a .5 and a few smaller units (C3's or TCUs were good---probably went in on all pitches). We only used about half of our rack. I put long runners on the stoppers and we maybe used 1 quickdraw elsewhere (we had 6 QDs). Anyway, my point is that the rack can be lighter than what we took, especially with the nice fixed belays. Next time, I'd just take a 70 M rope and leave the second cord behind. Sep 20, 2009
Mark Parrett
Salt Lake City, Utah
Mark Parrett   Salt Lake City, Utah
Did this route yesterday and would say that P1 is worth it but the rest really is not worth climbing.

Also, to clarify on the above comments, when climbing P1, there is a two bolt anchor with some aging cord and fixe links. We stopped and belayed here, but if you continue up about 15 feet, you hit a belay station with chains, and the belay is much more comfortable. If you pass those and pull the overhanging block, no more anchors to the top. Aug 17, 2009
Miller
Salt Lake
 
Miller   Salt Lake
 
It is easy to get off route on this climb. And there are multiple pitch variations and Rap Options. An adventurous climb worth doing all the pitches if you already slogged up there. Jul 14, 2009
Texaswall
The Woodlands, TX
 
Texaswall   The Woodlands, TX
 
After reading john's comment above that suggests skipping the first anchors that one comes upon, I found myself at the end of a 70m rope, establishing a gear belay. I saw no other anchors on the way up, so be smarter than I was, and stop in the alcove below the "overhangy mess" and take advantage of the chains. From there, go up, trend left, and find another very comfy belay ledge with chains. Straight up from there, between the very visible last chains of "Down and Dirty" on the face and the gully on the right, is easy climbing on some remarkable holds with ample protection. Chains on the top of D & D were obvious. Aug 18, 2008
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
5.6 PG13
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
5.6 PG13
the first pitch is worth the hike and the second two are really good too if your confident pretty far above gear. the aformentioned rap route is scary with a 60 meter rope as the 3rd rap is too long. we did it in a little over 7 hours car to car and didnt see a single other climber. definitly cool. Oct 11, 2007
jtn Crankarm
  5.6
jtn Crankarm  
  5.6
A single 60m rope will work on the decent rap for all but the THIRD rap. It comes up about 10 ft shy of the next anchor. Jul 23, 2007
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
 
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
 
Unless you are looking for more of an alpine experience, I'd take an extra rope an rap at the chains after the first long pitch. It's not that the next two pitches aren't fun, they are just extremely mild, but the rock is excellent. Beware of raspberry bushes. Jul 31, 2006
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
john gilchrist   sLC, utah
I would suggest climbing past the first set of anchors and assend to the anchors that have chains and a nicer area to belay from not to far from the first set. Pull the overhangy mess becuase it's their. Go straight up to the top, you will be able to see some chains 100 feet to the left and half way up that belong to another climb don't go for them like I did. Jul 9, 2006
Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
This is a route not to be missed. We did the rappel using two 60 meter ropes. This will allow you to rappel past the first set of ancbors you come to. At the third set of chains make a short rappell then from the next set of chains you can rappel past the next set of anchors and be on the ground. Jun 12, 2006
The bolted easy route III, DOWN AND DIRTY DOUBLECROSS, 5.6-7 to the top pf the cliff located about 100 feet to the left of the Jam Crack allows 5 bolted rappels with a single 60m rope. This should serve as an easy and quick rap route for all Mule Hollow routes on this side. should not be difficult to locate if searching from the top. Jul 11, 2005