Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: James Garrett and Kris Pietryga, 23 June 2005
Page Views: 6,396 total · 39/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jun 23, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Mule Hollow Wall Approach
In a small clearing about 25m left of Jam Crack and about 5m to the right of Center Face find DDD

Pitch #1: Start in a clearing at one of the bigger sections of the wall. Climb pockets and edges past 4 bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch #2: Continue straight up passing three bolts to a ledge and two bolt belay. Cool sculpted rock and pockets. 5.6, 32m.

Pitch #3: Aim for the left edge of a bushy ledge passing 2 bolts on the way. 5.5, 30m.

Pitch #4: The face becomes quite broken. Many protection options exist, but you may find one bolt protecting this pitch. 5.4, 30m.

Pitch #5: Romp up the final 20m to the top of the wall, no bolts, but two-bolt belay. 5.3, 20m

Rappel the route with one 70m rope or two ropes or walk off to the south


QDs and a few small to medium Camalots and Nuts


Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
Also known as "Fly-boy Follies"! -- Mark M. Aug 5, 2005
Great route - last two pitches can be linked up, the rest are probably better done separately. Approach is a pain, keep an eye out for the cairns on the trail - after the first one (its big 18" tall) the second one marks the point you turn left uphill. Go to the top of the talus and then follow a trail of sorts to the next big talus field. from the top of that you follow and trail of sorts to the base of the wall. Once at the base you have to get to the top of a ledge walk up the side at the base of the rock and then switchback back up to the top of the ledge. (it'll make sense once you get up there) Last 10' felt spicier than 5.3, but other than that the route description above is very accurate, esp pitch length.

  • On the rap down be sure to tie knots when going down from #3 (ledge w/ trees) to #2, my rope's (60m) tails just made it to the #2 rap station. Other than that great route - the 8mm cord used at the anchors needs to be inspected next season. *

Car to Car in 5 hours 20 mins. Sep 25, 2005
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
Fantastic climbing, makes the grueling hike worth it. I beleive that this bolt line follows the same general line as The Center Face (5.6R). There are plenty of protection opportunities, so the bolts aren't really necessary. However, on the first two pitches, the bolts pull you out of the easy crack on to the more exposed face to the right (5.7). So, the bottom line is that I have mixed feelings about the bolting of this route. The climb certainly doesn't need bolts given the ample protection (even if it is a little runout in spots). The bolt line does remain about 5-10 feet to the left of The Center Face, so it is a different route (not a retro-bolt). I do appreciate the rappel stations. I have rappeled with two different 60 meter ropes and both came up short on the third rappel, so perhaps the chains do need adjusting. Sep 4, 2006
Bret Crapo
Springville, UT
Bret Crapo   Springville, UT
Awesome! Its almost a crime how good this route is. It seemed a lot taller than 300 feet. More like 450. May 28, 2009
Ryan Lauck
Farmington, UT
Ryan Lauck   Farmington, UT
Excellent route! The first two pitches were my favorite - not like any other quartzite I've climbed, it felt almost like limestone with huge jugs and pockets.

Definitely seemed more like 450-500ft, descriptions are all dead on otherwise. I found myself placing mostly nuts and slinging horns, but a BD #2 came in handy in a couple spots.

I'll definitely be looking for more routes put up by you guys. May 30, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
If the 5.12 climber in you cares about such things don't clip any of the bolts and don't use any of the bolted belays. DDD is essentially a straightened and bolted Center Face (5.6 R) which has gone for years and safely on gear. Creative placements and long runners will turn this now sanitized romp back into a fun adventure route where you spend a lot of time 30' above gear. Beware of a bit of looseness here and there.

Nice engraving on the quicklinks, I'd be all over claiming this one too... Jul 26, 2010
Tom Macfarlane
  5.6 PG13
Tom Macfarlane   SLC, UT
  5.6 PG13
Great Route. Classic autumn day in the Wasatch. Oct 21, 2010
Fun route! The 2nd pitch is actually only 29 or 30 meters, not 32m as stated above. It's the 3rd pitch that is 32m (this is the only pitch that can't be rapped (double-stranded at least) with a single 60m rope). Jul 24, 2011
Wenatchee, WA
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
This bolted route is not necessary. It is not even a first ascent as listed above but rather a retro-bolt of another route. Someone needs to chop this. If you hike this far to do a 5.6, at least use the natural gear that the wall already takes. Bolting this line, Which is essentially center face, is a disgrace.
Pull it and delete it from MP. Jun 21, 2012
Ben Folsom
Ben Folsom  
Thanks Dr. Apnea... I climbed the Center Face again with my wife last year and we stubbed our toes on about 20-30 bolts. We did not use the bolts for protection, and in fact there was not a single bolt where I didn't have bomber clean gear within 2-3 feet(I took photos while standing there on the lead, so placing the gear isn't too difficult either). I was following the natural protection of the Center Face and only once for about 25 feet did I deviate from the bolt line to get gear. "Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed". What a fitting name for this retrofit.
This route had it's first ascent more than 50 years ago and has been climbed safely buy hundreds of parties without the bolts. Jun 25, 2012
chris nance
chris nance  
Super fun route. There is no need for bolts on the face. With a 70m you can link most of the pitches. The approach wasn't bad. Great place to get away from the crowds. Took us a little over 4 hours round trip. Jul 18, 2014
New Jersey
Mulch   New Jersey
Route was done in 3 pitches. P1 alone(although p1-p2 can be linked), p2-p3 and p4-p5. Make sure if you're linking to have plenty of gear. Definitely PG-13ish gear if you stay away from the big cracks to the left on the upper face of the climb. Stay center following the FEW bolts there are on the route and slightly right for a good 5.6/5.7 climb with (sometimes) hard to place gear. (Few bolts on the route doesn't kill the climb...) Aug 6, 2017