Avg: 2.7 from 25
votes
The guide lists this as 3 pitches, 5.6R, 5.5R, 5.5R. Since then someone has added 4 new sets of bolts making an almost even 5 pitches. Pitch length approx 100 ft, 100 ft, 110 ft, 100 ft, and 85 feet. First two and last two pitches can be combined with a single 60m rope without excessive rope drag.
Wall is 3/4 mi up Mule Hollow gulch. Route starts up the face 75 feet left of Jam Crack, right of where a pair of diagonal cracks hit the ground, just left of a small vegetated crack. Need 2 ropes or a 70m rope to rap down, third pitch is too long for a 60m rope. Walk-off is long, vegetated, and dirty; both walk-off options take far longer than a rap down the face.
Standard rack, small to medium pro. Runout face sections have been bolted, no pitches are R anymore. Bolted belay stations at the top of each of the five pitches.
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Puget Sound, Washington
Small Lake, UT
Just to be on the safe side avoid the bolts and wander around a few feet to the side of the bolted line where protection opportunities are plentiful but a bit spaced. A bit of creativity is required but you'll feel safe with a standard rack up to a #2, no doubles needed. If you don't want to make it too R bring plenty of long runners and go heavier on the small cams.
Use the bolted belays of DDD or run it in 3 pitches with the top of P1 being the only annoying trad belay (shallow alcove about 40m up, small nuts and cams). The top of P2 (big treed ledge) has a few trees to sling or you can sit behind a block and use a good old body belay.
5 single rope raps or walk off if you want to keep the adventure going. Jul 26, 2010
Salt Lake City, UT
Nice route name "Nebulous Squeeze"....will have to keep that one on the back burner.
Thanks! Jul 29, 2010
Small Lake, UT
Don't forget to engrave the hardware too... Jul 29, 2010
Wenatchee, WA
Grand Junction