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Routes in Mount Athelstan

Gnomon Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Lillarete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonraker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raised By Bears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Selective Cut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Solstice Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Standing Wave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2500 ft, 20 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jim Martinello, Damien Kelly, July 2004
Page Views: 595 total, 6/month
Shared By: Dru on May 1, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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This route climbs the Solstice Start to Lillarete, and where that route is forced left to join Lillarete, continues up the arete on beautiful, difficult, runout climbing directly to the summit of the Gnomon. Finish up Lillarete to the summit. The crux is allegedly an unprotected V2/3 boulder problem.


The route climbs the square-cut arete right of Lillarete and left of Selective Cut all the way to the summit of the Gnomon.

Bring crampons and ice axe for the descent.


Gear to 4" and thin pitons.


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