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Routes in Mount Athelstan

Gnomon Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Lillarete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonraker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raised By Bears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Selective Cut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Solstice Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Standing Wave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2500 ft, 20 pitches, Grade IV
FA: D Brayshaw, A Port, M Spagnut 2001
Page Views: 50 total, 0/month
Shared By: Dru on May 1, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This route climbs the huge hanging corner system on the southwest face of the Gnomon (10 pitches), then finishes up Lillarete to the top. It is characterized by one good pitch (the first) and a bunch of lower-quality pitches with loose rock.

Approach the corner, which ends about 50m off the deck above a flared overhanging chimney. Climb excellent, polished cracks on the left wall of this chimney (5.9 crux) until able to step across into the chimney for the last few moves.

Continue up the hanging corner for 6 pitches or so. The corner itself is solid but accumulates debris fallen from above - the best climbing is on the slab about 5m right of the corner, out past the debris, but there is little pro there.

From near the top of the hanging corner, climb two piches up steeper corners with massive perched blocks, treading very carefully, to gain the summit of the Gnomon. Make a 15m rap off the Gnomon then walk back along the ridge behind to join Lillarete around p.10 of that route. Continue up that route to the top.

Location

In the massive hanging corner on the southwest side of RSB. Hard to miss.

Bring ice axe and/or crampons for descent as per all the routes on this mountain - down the gully between RSB and the Fantastic Wall.

Protection

Gear to 4" and double ropes in case one gets chopped by the loose rock, as happened on the FA.

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