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Routes in Mount Athelstan

Gnomon Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Lillarete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonraker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raised By Bears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Selective Cut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Solstice Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Standing Wave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2500 ft, 20 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Don Serl, Jia Condon and Janez Ales, June 2004
Page Views: 51 total, 0/month
Shared By: Dru on May 1, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This route climbs the lower part of the very prominent arete between Selective Cut and Lillarete before moving left to join Lillarete below that route's crux pitch.

Climb 6 pitches on the arete, to sustained 5.8/9, with solid rock but minimal protection, then traverse left into Lillarete near the diagonal crack pitch on that route. Finish up Lillarete.

Location

Climb the very prominent arete left of the great corner of Selective Cut.

Protection

Wired nuts and cams to 3" plus a few thin pins. Crampons and ice axe for descent.

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