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Routes in Mount Athelstan

Gnomon Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Lillarete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonraker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raised By Bears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Selective Cut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Solstice Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Standing Wave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1600 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: D Brayshaw, M Nikkinen, G Quan 2001
Page Views: 827 total, 8/month
Shared By: Dru on May 1, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

To the left of the Randy Stoltmann Buttress lies the "Fantastic Wall", a large slab split by a huge sickle-shaped gully/chimney. Moonraker climbs left of this sickle feature, and breaks down into three sections:

4 pitches of mid-5th, 5.4-5.6 climbing. Pretty much anywhere between the sickle and the left arete can be climbed at the same grade. These pitches end at a break where the angle kicks back.

6 pitches of 4th class climbing. A great place to shortrope and simulclimb. Continue up the narrowing slab over many rubbly ledges, but wih solid rock underneath should you require pro. The final belay is at the apex of the sickle, a narrow arete with deep gullies on both sides.

2 pitches of 5.7. Step across the gap to the main face and climb solid rock with good cracks for pro and excellent block face holds, aiming for a V-notch in the summit ridge. These final pitches offer the best climbing on the route.

This is the easiest route on the Salal Creek Walls and is probably the most popular, with around 20 ascents as of 2009. A great introduction to alpine rock, simulclimbing and route finding.

Location

Bring ice axe and possibly crampons in order to descend the couloir between Fantastic Wall and Randy Stoltmann Buttress back down to the bivi site. They are also usually needed to approach the bae of the route.

Protection

Light rack up to #3 Camalot.

Photos

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